Mt. Pumori Expedition (7161m/27,494ft) will test your endurance and climbing skills, but like all mountains, the rewards will overwhelmingly compensate for the effort required to reach its summit. Mt. Pumori is located on the border of Nepal in the Mahalangur Himal in the Himalayas, stretching from Nangpa La Pass between Rolwaling Himal and Cho Oyu, to the Arun River.
It includes Mount Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu — four of earth’s six highest peaks. Pumori means “the Mountain Daughter” in the Sherpa language. ‘Pumo’ means young girl or daughter and ‘Ri’ means mountain.
This expedition requires you to have previous climbing experience and are familiar with the use of ropes and other mountaineering equipment. You will climb across glaciers and snow-covered ridges to reach the summit. This is not something for the faint-hearted! This is a genuine climbing expedition that requires climbing up 40 to 60-degree slopes.
Fortunately, you will be roped-off and will have some expert guidance before and during the climb. Several camps will be established at varying altitudes prior to ascending to the summit.
Pumori Expedition, This is one of the most popular and delightful mountains which is situated in the Northwest of Nepal, Khumbu Region. This is a moderate technical pyramid snow and rock mountain for climbing. Generally three camps are set in the approach above the base camp for climbing.
Our normal route is classic South-East Ridge for climbing. The summit from Pumori provides excellent photography views of snowy mountains which will be a great perception for mountaineers. Our mission is to lead the way for the best possible chance for success but adventure is one step beyond your expectation.
Pumori is one of the easier excess and challenging 7000m peaks in Nepal. It is attached with Kalapatthar ridge and cut by a glacier portion just below. Along the Kalapatthar climb up Mt Pumori is most stunning and looks one of the colossal one.
Climbing Pumori requires a moderate technical climb in ice and snow. Moreover, a good knowledge of alpine climbing techniques and familiarity with the effects of high altitudes are necessary. We take the classic route along with the southeast ridges: generally, three camps are set up at around 5300m.
First successful summit
In 1962, Gerhard Lenser of a German-Swiss expedition made the first successful summit of Mt. Pumori.
Route
The Pumori expedition commenced after a 30 minutes mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla . The trekking trails ascend till Gorakshep the last tea house of Everest region near by Everest base camp then Himalaya Journey Treks and expedition’s climbing guide will take you to Mt. Pumori base camp. Normally, Mountaineering in Pumori three camps are set in the approach above the Pumori base camp.
The normal route for the Mt. Pumori climbing is South East Ridge. For Pumori expedition the Pumori Base camp will be set up at 5300m. We climbed through the glaciers for approx. 4 hours and reached Pumori Camp 1 at 5700m. From Pumori Camp 1, we climbed 480m. on the face with 40-60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp 2 at 6200m. on a narrow ridge.
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From camp 2, we climb approx. 450m. through ice with 30-60 degrees slopes passing through ice walls and crevasses. This section is prone to avalanches from big seracs hanging on the shoulder above. Camp 3 will be set up at an altitude of 6480m. On the ridge . Passing through crevasses, we climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit of Mount pumori. After successfully submitting Pumori then trail return same to till lukla then by fly back to Kathmandu.
Mt. Pumori Expedition Routes via Kalapatthar:
- We take the classic route instead of the risky one via Kalapatthar. We attempt the summit through the South East Ridge route, which is the standard route. Pumori is a Grade 3 level climb, it isn’t extremely technical but requires a certain amount of understanding of mountaineering techniques and familiarity with high altitudes. Adventure Club Trek gives acclimatization a major priority during the expedition.
● Three camps are set up above Pumori Base Camp, which is at 5,300m. A 4-hour-long climb through the glaciers brings us to our first camp at 5,700m. The second camp is set at 6,200m and requires climbing the face of Pumori at 40-60 degree slopes. The third camp is at 6,480m and we get there climbing ice walls and crevasses. It is from camp 3, we pass through crevasses and the Pumori cliff to finally make it to the summit.
Adventure Club Trek has 10+ years of experience in high altitude expeditions and engages guides and mountaineers with 15+ years of experience in the field.
We also offer Ama Dablam Expedition – 30 days for those who want a shorter expedition in the Everest region. Adventure Club Trek also organizes the expedition to Mt. Everest. Check out our Everest Expedition via the South Side – 67 Days.
Outline Itinerary
- Day 1 – Arrive at Kathmandu international airport (1,345m)
- Day 2 – Pre-expedition meeting and a full day sightseeing in Kathmandu valley.
- Day 3 – Official formalities in Kathmandu.
- Day 4 – Final Preparation day in Kathmandu
- Day 5 – Fly to Lukla (2804m) and trek to Phakding (2,610m): 3-4 hrs trek
- Day 6 – Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440m): 5 – 6 hrs trek
- Day 7 – Rest at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization
- Day 8 – Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3,860m) : 5 -6 hrs trek
- Day 9 – Tengboche to Dingboche (4,350m) : 5 – 6 hrs. trek
- Day 10 – Dingboche to Lobuche (4940m): 5-6 hrs. trek
- Day 11 – Lobuche to Pumori Base Camp(5,300m): 6-7 hrs. trek
- Day 12 – (Days 12, 13 and 14) – Rest & acclimatization day in Pumori base camp. Visit Everest base camp as well.
- Day 15: 15 to 32 – Climbing Period.
- Day 33: Pumori Base Camp to Pheriche(4,240m): 6-7 hrs trek
- Day 15
- Day 34: Pheriche back to Namche Bazaar (3,440m): 3-4 hrs trek
- Day 35: Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2,804m) : 6-7 hrs trek
- Day 36: Fly back to Kathmandu
- Day 37: Leisure day in Kathmandu. We arrange farewell dinner for the group and guides.
- Day 38: Transfer to airport, departure on your own destination.
Download detailed Itinerary here
More destination from Nepal
Explore Nepal with us – to the deep in those nook and corners of Nepal Himalaya. Suggestions other than Pumori Expedition.
Annapurna Conservation Area (47 Trips)
Nar Phu Valley (3 Trips)
Annapurna Base Camp (5 Trips)
Thorong La pass (8 Trips)
Tilicho Lake (2 Trips)
Shivapuri National Park (6 Trips)
Cost Details
Cost Includes
- All land transportation by Car, Van, Hiace or, tourist Bus (Airport/Hotel/Airport, expedition pick up & drop).
- 5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before & after expedition).
- Schedule flight Ktm/Lukla/ktm for member, Liaison officer & Expedition staffs.
- Transport of food supply and expedition equipment to Base Camp & back.
- Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
- Base Camp single sleeping tent & Mattress for each member, BC staffs & Liaison Officer.
- All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table, chairs & cooking utensils for Base Camp.
- Food and fuel at Base Camp.
- Service of Government Liaison officer.
- Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
- Equipment allowance, daily wages of cook, kitchen boys & Liaison officer.
- Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison officer and porters.
- Mt. Pumori expedition permit
- Sagarmatha National Park entrance fee.
- 2 Expedition duffel bag for each member.
- Generator or Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
- Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
- Emergency medical oxygen at Base Camp.
- Visa extension fee.
- Agency service charge.
- Kathmandu valley sightseeing tour with private vehicle as mentioned in itinerary
- Kathmandu valley sightseeing tour with private vehicle as mentioned in itinerary
- Kathmandu International airport drop
Cost Excludes
- International airfare from/to your country.
- Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport at upon arrival). You need 30$ dollar visa fee for 15 days, cash money will be easier
- Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
- Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
- High Tents above Base Camp.
- High altitude food and fuel above Base Camp.
- Oxygen & Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
- Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation & lost luggage.
- Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, communication equipment & commercial filming.
- International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport.
- Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
- Tips and bonuses.
- Garbage deposit.