Day 01: Fortunately got a flight to Lukla on a mountain flight helicopter.
I woke up early in the morning to go to the airport; I had a flight from Kathmandu to Ramechhap instead of Kathmandu to Lukla. But my clients were flying in the direct flight to Lukla from Kathmandu (Tribhuvan International Airport). As talked with the flight operator of Lukla I settled to fly on a helicopter. To be honest that was one of the great help to me.
Took the helicopter boarding pass at the helicopter agency in Kathmandu, inside the domestic terminal of the Kathmandu airport and followed the crew of helicopter. 4 other luxury travelers to Nepal was happier and excited for the flight. We got into the helicopter once the pilot said so, foreign Heli pilot was a nice guy and he was taking us through the clouds so gently and 4 luxury travelers to Nepal who were staying in Kathmandu in on the 5-star Hotel and taking a helicopter to go from one place to another place.
They said they have been to Annapurna base camp by helicopter, they went to Muktinath by helicopter and this was their 3rd tour to see Everest before they get back home. We all were watching the beauty of the mountains from the window of a helicopter on air. It was not 1st-time experience to me but was nice to tell all 4 luxury travelers about the places and pointing out the mountains with their names. We have become friendly to each other and I became their guide on the helicopter tour to Everest. When we were close to the Lukla airport, we saw a stunning and clear view of Everest, just the top of Everest was inside the cloud.
I was supposed to take off at the Lukla airport so I did, hand shaked and bye them for their flight to Everest base camp by helicopter. They flew and I walked to the airport of Lukla to wait for my clients who were taking a plane from Kathmandu to Lukla. Meanwhile, I called my client who was on the board at Kathmandu, in summit air and told them their flight will happen as the weather of Lukla is great so far. I waited in a spot where I could make a video of a plane landing in Lukla airport. I took some video of the plane taking off from Lukla airport, this was an interesting video clip of the shortest runway for an airstrip in a mountain of Nepal. Lukla airport is considered one of the dangerous airports in the world.
After waiting for 3 hours my client for Everest base camp Chola pass Gokyo lake trekking arrived at the airport of Lukla. I do not know what has happened but they took so long even after the plane they were boarded was coming there more than a dozen times. Later, I knew it was because the flight was doing to and from Ramechhap to Lukla because of the bad weather in between Ramechhap airport and Kathamndu. I received them at the airport, they were happier than I was expecting them to be. In the chilled weather of Lukla, the view of the mountains was a super clear and stunning view of the giant hills in front of us were overwhelming enough to make them happy for the moment. We went to our hotel at Lukla and booked a hotel at Lukla for the way back; as of last night is going to be in Lukla before we fly from Lukla to Kathmandu. We took our breakfast and the happy client took pictures of the plane landing and also took the videos of the plane taking off of the Lukla airport. After they spent enough time at Lukla air stripe we started our trek. Before the trek, I told them about do and don’ts of the Nepali culture like; don’t kiss in the public, walk form the left of the Manni wall or Chhorten or any Buddist sites. With doing all the dos and don’ts we talked about Everest, talked about Mt Blonc and some personnel and non-personnel things. It was a nice talk and walk at the same time.
On the trail I met many of my friends; it was good chatting with them. We took a break at Thadokoshi and stared at the blue water flowing on the river of Dudh Koshi. I made some videos of Everest base camp trek, I mean collected clips to make a video of Everest base camp trek. After walking for 4 hours we get to our destination at Phakding.
Phakding is a village on a side of the river and it is one of the common stops for trekkers doing any of the trekking to Everest base camp. People who do Everest base camp trek, Everest base camp Chola pass trek, Everest three high pass trek, Everest panorama trek, Everest view trek, trek to Namche or any of the peaks in Nepal – stop in this village Phakding. Some trekkers stay in other villages further than Phakding at Toktok, Benkar, Monjo or Jorsalle as well; but the accommodation and food are better at Phakding than in those places. Even the people who do Everest base camp luxury trek stop at Phakding, this is because of the luxury hotel they have at Phakding. From Phakding the camp to Namche for the next day is preferable as well.
After checking at the hotel of Phakding I had good chat with clients, took their order for the food and after dinner, I brief them about the next day for trekking from Phakding to Namche; they went to sleep and I had good chat with the owner of the hotel.
Day 02 :Trekking from Phakding to Namche – a long and lots of change in the trekking scenery
Phakding is 2600meters above the sea level, from this altitude we started our trek to Namche at the altitude of 3440 meters above the sea level. After breakfast we started our journey to Namche – Namche is 8 hours away from Phakding.
On the trail, we saw one mountain goat which looks like getting lost from the herd and was sitting in the base of a giant stone by the side of the Dudh Koshi River. Today was the day to walk by the side of the Dudh Koshi River for the entire day and cross the river for the 5 times and we did that. Trekking trail was less crowded today, which was nice but the Everest base camp trail is managed to spoil the natural style of the trek trail. The stone stairs and lots of stonework were not easy to walk on.
On the trail of Everest base camp in today’s section, we saw two waterfalls and pass by many villages. As it is the day of the festival and kids were chanting Deusi and Bhailo songs on the trekking trail and were asking money with trekkers. I put 500 rupees in one of the places to make myself happy that I have missed this part of the festival because of Everest trekking. After walking for 2 hours from Phakding we get to Monjo village that is where the checkpoint of Sagarmatha national park is installed. Trekkers trekking to the Everest base camp or 3 high pass trek or Gokyo trek needs to buy permits here. Even the member of an expedition to Everest or any of the peak climbing in Everest needs to show their permit here. The army checkpoint at Monjo could be one of the strict checkpoints in the Everest region.
At the checkpoint, we bought the ticket and after 15 minutes of walking, we got to our lunch place. Today the lunch was early but the riverside lunch was better, a good lunch by nature. After filling the water bottles for the rest of 4 hours walk we started to trek towards Namche. Trekking to Namche from Jorsalle was not easy at all. My first trekking after 8 months and the big backpack I was carrying was not supported at all. But the interesting thing was my clients who were carrying their backpack but they look okay than me. The trail to Namche, after Larche Dovan (tallest bridge of Everest trail), was uphill and it was not a nice walk at all.
We took long steps, continuously and keep walking at a good pace and took rest at the place called Durpin danda. The name of the place is Durpin danda or binocular place, this name is so because from this hill ridge we can see the top of the Everest for the first time in our Everest base camp trekking. The weather was clear and we got a great view of Everest. We saw Everest behind Lotse Shar through the trees of pine. My clients must be really happy to see Everest for the first time with their eyes themselves. I can guess that when one them was asking me jokingly if I have seen Everest. I replied I have seen Everest more than needed – must be a rude answer from a guide to a guest but that was the truth.
After a clear view of Everest through the forest of pine trees, we walked through the jungle and made to the checkpoint in less than an hour – I must agree that was the great pace. I was leading the trail by walking in the front and they followed my fastest pace I could go. After checking in the permit at the checkpoint of Nepal police, we got to Namche and the hotel in Namche.
Namche was in sunshine and we saw the sun setting over Mt Kongde in front of us were on the right there was Mt. Thamserku and Mt Kangtega. It was a nice walk. Tomorrow we are taking a day rest for the acclimatization in this village of Namche. As it is recommended to take acclimatization rest at 3000meters and acclimatization at 4000meters; I booked a hotel in every place of Everest trek and for higher up to Everest base camp.
Day 03 :Namche to Tengboche trekking – my best day with approaching view of Khumbu Himalaya range
Phakding was below 3000 meters but the height of Namche is already 3440 meters above the sea level. We were supposed to rest a day at Namche as planned. But I saw my guest running like normal and they did not have any altitude sickness. That is why I thought if we keep going further the next day we could do it. To be precise with the decision we planned to see till the morning and decide either to walk more or stay one more night at Namche.
If we were staying at Namche things to do in Namche were abundant. We could go to Sagarmatha national park or hike up to Everest view hotel or trek even more to the villages of Khumjung and Khunde. If you are a doctor you will love to trek to Khunde as they have a hospital there. The hospital in Khunde has a doctor and a nurse. Khunde hospital is established by the funding of Hillary foundation. Till this date Khunde hospital is under the funding of Hillary foundation – all the employees of the hospital are paid by Hillary foundation.
After checking guests were completely fine (however, I got a slight headache – it went away after drinking 1 liter of water) we decided to walk to Tengboche. As we were going to the biggest and beautiful monastery of the Khumbu region, we decided to reach in time to attend the ceremony that was taking place at the monastery of Tengboche. This Tengboche monastery is called Pemchholing monastery and is one of the famous monasteries all over the world. Talking about this monastery, they have the Dumji festival every year during November (it falls nov 12/13 this year) and that time the monastery is visited by people all around the world.
We started walking tour to EBC with an uphill trekking trail till the end of the Namche village and then the trail was finest. In the after-dinner briefing, I have talked about the man in the Everest trekking trail who build the road. Mr. Tshiring Dawa was on the road; as I have talked with a guest they donated the money in the meantime I was making a video on that.
After donating that old man we trekked along the flatter trekking trail built by the guy. In the meantime, we could see a clear view of Mt Everest, Mt Lothse, Mt Amadablam, Mt Thamserku, Mt Taboche, and Mt Shirtse. On the trek, we were talking about the mountains, peak climbing in the Alps, peak climbing in Nepal, how high we have been so far and how the trail is maintained like this. I told them about the village we saw on the way, the village of mountaineers – the Phortse village. I told them Mt Amadablam is my girlfriend which I have not climbed and am thinking about it. I told them about how technical is Mt Amadablam – Mt Amadablam is one of the most technical mountains in Nepal among technical peaks in the Everest region – this is even harder than Everest herself.
After walking for 3 hours we get to the lunch place before we get to the lunch place the trail was downhill with pebbles. Due to these small stones, we were at the risk of slipping and I did fell. We get to the lunch place right after we trekked in the jungle with passing by trekkers and the yak. The yaks are transporters of Everest.
We had lunch and refilled the water and got ready for the final uphill beat to the Tengboche monastery. From there Tengboche monastery was 2 hours away but uphill. Before uphill started I met my friend Raj and Sudip we chatted short and continued till the checkpoint where we checked our client’s permit. Raj was with big group trekkers where Sudip was with a small trekking group. It was nice catching them on the way and a short walk together we talked about how much trekking we have done to this last phase of the October season. We talked about the size of a group, it shows Raj was taking big trekking group and is happy with the amount of money he earns at the end of the trek with tips. Sudip and I turned out to be trekking with small trekking groups and a medium-size trekking group. Over the entire short walk together it was a nice meeting in the trekking trail of Everest base camp.
After walking uphill for 2 hours we got to the top, however, for general trekkers it is 3 hours of trekking. My guests were flying even without hiring a porter for their luggage. We took 2 stops where normal trekkers would take 4 stops. It was an amazing walk with the fastest people. We came 1 hour earlier than the estimated time at Tengboche. By the time we arrived at Tengboche, the mountains were under the cloud and I thought, that is what it is going to be all day today and we will not get the view. But all of a sudden, the mountains started clearing up, it was great scenery, closer view of mt Amadablam and Mt Kangtega. We saw great scenery of sun setting on the mountains and made some photos and videos of it.
Visiting the Tengboche monastery was nice right before the sunset. We stayed inside the monastery for half an hour in the peace and silence. Guests were all happy saying that they have not been to any monastery beautiful like Tengboche monastery. The art and thanka painting on wood and the wall of the monastery was mesmerizing. We waited and waited but monks never came to perform the ceremony inside the monastery, so we decided to leave to the guest house in Tengboche. We also decided to come in the morning to attend the morning puja ceremony of the monastery.
We had our dinner from the dining you still can see the Everest and Lotshe. After dinner, I briefed them about the trekking from Tengboche to Dingboche. They were more curious about how sunrise over Everest top gonna looks? It was a nice evening talk about their oxygen saturation level and who beats who in the reading of oximeter. An oximeter is a machine you can see in the hospital which measures the level of oxygen saturation in your blood and heartbeats of your body. It helps to know the reason for sickness in the mountain.
Normally I look at the trend of increase and decrease in the oxygen level and decide the sickens of the guest, either it is AMS or other than altitude. Sometimes people get AMS but it is not always the AMS to make you sick in the mountains.
If you have a cold, can not eat because of less tasty food, can not walk as you are not used to or many other reasons might be because of mountain sickness. But this oxygen saturation checks up I do daily helps me to see to make the right decision for the sickness in the mountain.
If it is AMS (either HACE or HAPE) is something serious and the guest needs to be evacuated as soonest possible. But If other reasons to fall sick than we can wait and see.
After dinner briefing about the trail and the village of Dingboche they kept on reading their books and kept on writing journals, meanwhile, I came to my dorm room to write about the day.
Day 04: Tengboche Monastery to Dingboche village trekking – we trekked different route to see the hand of Yeti
Tengboche was 3870 meters above the sea level but the height of Dingboche is 4350 meters above the sea level. But before beginning the story of what happened today I want to share the incident from last night at Tengboche.
I was in dining with some friends, as it was warm in the dining in the mountains. I was sleeping in the dorm room as the hotel was full even at the end of the fall trekking season. There were also 4 other guides sleeping in the dorm room and everyone has got the blanket and I managed 2 blankets for me, keep those blankets at my bed but when I went to dormitory room to sleep one of my blankets was stolen. I never expected that would happen from Nepali brothers but that happened. Ironically I slept with only one blanket but to be safe from the cold I wore all the inners I had and slept with a dawn jacket.
Okay, let’s talk about what we did on our trek from Tyangboche to Dingboche. From one boche village to another boche village a lot of change has happened today. Clients were happy to see the change in the scenery. As we were walking above 4000meters above the sea level, no tree line started and the high rising snow-capped mountains in the no tree line zone looked like the moon. The amount of oxygen on the air got lesser and lesser on every climb towards Dingboche. We talked about the book into the thin air while we were ourselves into the thin air.
Trekking from Tengboche to Dingboche has 2 options of trekking trail, one you can take a trail of upper Pangboche village and another is a regular trail from lower Pangbpche village. We took the upper Pangboche trail to visit the monastery in the village. Apart from the Pangboche monastery, the trail on the good viewpoints made trekking beautiful and interesting. A visit to the upper Pangboche monastery was to see the hand of yeti that used to help lama Syange Dorje.
We trekked through the villages and passed 2 monasteries today, one at Deboche – a monastery of old nuns and another at Pangboche monastery where lama Syange Dorje meditated for long period and where yeti that used to help lama died during his duty on fetching water for Lama. We trekked from the dry landscape on the side of the river. Small purple flowers in scar bushes were amazing.
After crossing the river coming from Everest base camp and Chola lake we took a small break before we started uphill trekking to the ridge of Dingboche valley. The river junction was a nice break for the legs and sound of nature. The river we crossed by the bridge, comes from Chola lake – a dam of Taboche glacier and a collector of Cholatse glacier. After a short break, we took our trail to Dingboche on the side of the edge of a hill; when the river from Imja lake is flowing in its charm. Uphill, thin air and tired body by multi-days trekking the sound of Imja river was dulcet. Imja Lake is the lake in front of the Island peak climbing route. If you have been to Everest three high pass trek or island peak climbing route or Amphulapcha pass – 5863 meters above the sea level or if you have done Imja glacial lake study; you must know about this river, as you walk on its right.
After 5 hours of trek from Tengboche, we reached Dingboche and stayed in one of the local tea houses. This local legend Lakpa Tsiring Sherpa was a porter in the mountain and became Sherpa for the Mt Everest expedition and eventually, he became a climbing guide for a technical peak like Amadablam peak and ended his career with few successful Everest expedition guide. He is a good man and his hotel is nice with warm dining and the attached toilet in the room. We had dinner at his place where more than 10 employees work for him and he has his retired life in the place he loves.
After dinner briefing, I went for my dinner inside the kitchen and 4th day of trekking to Everest base camp. In the briefing, I talked about our day hike for acclimatization to a peak very near to us. The nearness of this acclimatization point saved a lot of energy in trekkers for Everest base camp or any of the pass trek in Everest. We talked about walking to 4400meters to 4800meters in 2 hours and taking a few minute breaks for good acclimatization. Took the reading of present oxygen saturation in the blood and checked the heartbeat. Everything was fine and the bed was calling for warm sleep and rest to the 4 days hiking body.
Day 05: Rest day at Dingboche 4350 meters above the sea level.
One at 3000meters and another at 4000 meters are 2 major demanding acclimatization rest for trekking to Everest base camp. At Lukla airport altitude is 2880 meters above the sea level, trekking in Everest needs so much care with AMS. That is why we normally plan 2 acclimatizations for the trek in Everest.
As a part of the acclimatization rest day at Dingboche, we hiked up to the Dingboche ridge on the way to the Nangkarsang peak. The top of the Nangkarsang peak is 5080 meters above the sea level but we went to the height of 4800 meters above sea level and 450 meters above the Dingboche village height. As the definition of acclimatization, we did trek high and sleep lower at Dingboche.
After breakfast at the hotel in Dingboche, we started our 3 hours trek to the acclimatization point. We talked about the mountains we have seen, talked about the fourth highest mt Lotse and fifty highest mountain Makalu. We saw hundreds of mountains like mt Amadablam, Mt Cholatse, Mt Taboche, Mt Lobuhce peak, Mt Island peak, Mt Kali Himal, Mt Barunse, Mt Kangtega, Mt Thamsherku and may other. From the acclimatization point, we saw the glacial lake of Chola and I show the guest the trail to Chola pass.
After 2 hours of walking, we reached the acclimatization point and took 30 minutes break sleeping on the ground. Sleeping in the place surrounded by the mountains was a great experience for my guest that is why we stayed 30 minutes, although staying there for 1 minute would have been good for acclimatization. On the way back from the hike we took the downhill trail from the monastery at Dingboche. It was a nice walk to look over the scenery of the river valley, Chukung village, Dingboche village and the towering mountains in contrast to them. After walking for 1 hour we got to the hotel for lunch.
Hash brown with cheese and 2 fried egg for the lunch must be good food for guests after the lunch guest went to see some bakery café in the village of Dingboche. Among many things to do from Dingboche village, bakery hunting is a thing to do in Dingboche.
Note- People who do Everest 3 high pass trekking in the Everest region do not stay 2 nights at Dingboche but goes to Chhukung village which is 400 meters above Dingboche. For 3 high pass trekkers, I would not suggest skipping Namche as we have done this time. Even if you are fit and you are gym person, cyclist, army, police, runner or any kind of athlete you must have rest at 4000 meters and for 3 high passes even if you are one of the above fit people do not skip Namche village rest day (acclimatization Hike).
Day 06 Dingboche to Lobuche trek
Trekking from the altitude of 4350meters above the sea level to 5000meters above the sea level is not hard if you do the math but the height of Lobuche village is 5000meters makes the trek a little bit interesting and adventurous. There is nothing that is technical or difficult but the hike above 4000 meters and in the barren land of Everest base camp was not as easy as you would imagineAfter breakfast at the hotel of Dingboche village, we started our trek in the misty cloud. Guests were asking if the clouds will go away or not and I replied it will not. But it was lucky that after 1 hour of walking towards Lobuche from Dingboche the blue sky in the mountains of Everest started to show up. The magical sun rising behind the top of Mt Amadablam made this clear sky possible. After a gentle walk towards the village of Thukla and lots of picture breaks on the way, the day became beautiful. We took jump shot in front of Mt Taboche and Mt Cholatse, it was amazing picture moment we had in our Everest base camp Chola pass trek.
We could see the trail to Chola pass in front of us and the lake of Chola was visible as well. After an easy walk through Dusa, we make our way towards Thukla village. Thukla is at a height of 4600meters above the sea level. This village Thukla is on the side of Chola lake and right at the bottom of Khumbu glacier. We crossed the bridge on the river that was just originating from the tail of Khumbu glacier. Khumbu glacier was all covered with a ridge on our side but the stunning mountains like Cholatse, Tabohe on the left and all the mountains on the range of Amadablam were stunning.
Dusa is a meadow for yak grazing in between Thukla village and Dingboche village. The interesting thing about this place is that during the month of July the village of Dingboche is all closed as you can not lit the fire in the village. At this time of the year, all the villagers of the Dingboche village sift in the camping tent at this place of Dusa.
After getting to the village of Thukla we had a rest and a cup of tea, ginger lemon honey is a good tea in the mountains so we drank the same tea. I asked if the clients were fine and they agreed on continuing the walk. We started our walk on the way to the top of Thukla pass. It took us 2 hours to get to the top of Thukla pass. Top of Thukla pass is the place where all the memorials are, the memorials of people who died in Everest. Most of the memorials are of those who died in the expedition of Everest. Here you can visit the memorials of legends like Babu Chhiri Sherpa, Scott Fischer and Rob Hall.
After spending 30 minutes for the photos and break at the top of Thukla pass we moved towards the village of Lobuche at 5000meters. Top of Thukla pass was windy where we had snacks and talked about into the thin air, movie Everest, Lobuche peak right in front of us and the valley of Pheriche and Dingboche with a wider view of the mountain range.
After walking towards the mountain range of Mt Pumori, Mt Chalgatshe, Mt Lingtren, Mt Khumbu, Mt Lobuche, Mt Khumnbutse, Mt Lohla, Mt Nuptse for an hour we get to the village of Lobuche. We had lunch and went to the warm room at the local guesthouse at Lobuche.
Before taking dinner we had a great view of the sun setting on the mountain of Nuptse. Nuptse was the only mountain that we can see from the village of Lobuche, clearly. However, Mountains like Pumori, Lotse, Amadablama can be seen a little bit from this village of Lobuche. Lobuche was a small and nice village to see the sunset at Nuptse. The change of color on the mountain was stunning, we could see a different color while sunsetting on Mt Nuptse. Orange, gold and red colors are seen in the mountain of Nuptse which was awesome.
After the photoshoot and staring at the sunset on Nuptse, it started getting colder outdoor so we went inside the dinning. The warm dining was heated with yak poo in a big stove put in the middle of the big dining hall. When the dinner was ready, I served guests with delicious Dalbhat Power 24 hours. After dinner, we had chat with climbers who were doing trekking from Thame to Renjo la pass and did Cho la pass and we met them at this village of Lobuche. These german guys were climbing island peak after Everest base camp and then climbing to Mera peak. It was quite an adventure. He also talked about his expedition to the top of the Lobuche peak. He was making a joke about how he has heard 5 different height of Lobuche, although being si near to the Pyramid. This pyramid near to Lobuche village on the way to base camp is the station and a research center to find the weather and the height of the mountains.
After a good chat, we sit around the oven where yak poo was giving us the heat for a couple of hours. We read a book, talked about the trek to Everest base camp, the trekking gears my clients need to use for tomorrow, how cold will it be during the walk? When I said the morning temperature to Everest base camp from Lobuche will be -10 degree, guests were not that happy for sure. I told them to wear all the warm stuff. And we decide to go to our rooms which were cold and we needed to make them warm after sleeping a while. To start a day early to the base camp of Everest we decided to go bed early today. The mixed joy and torture of the next days’ walk can easily be seen in my guests’ eyes.
Day 07 Lobuche to Everest base camp trekking
From the height of 5000meters above the sea level, we started our trek to the Everest base camp at the height of 5364meters above the sea level. It was the long hike and we started our trek early in the morning. The breakfast was scheduled for 6 and we were supposed to leave right after the breakfast when the temperature was -10 degree Celcius.Before I start writing about my trek I want to tell you some amazing moments that happened last night.
I went to bed a bit earlier than other days as we were doing a long walk to the base camp of Everest from Lobuche. The walk was for 9 hours so I did that. I completed the daily writing about the trip, wrote about trekking from Dingboche to Lobuche village and decided to go to sleep. I went to bed at 11 Pm and around 3:25 Am there was a knock on my door. At first, I thought it is time to wake up and it was a wake-up call by the owner of the tea house. Hurriedly I woke up and looked at my watch which was not the time for breakfast, neither it was late for breakfast. Again I heard knocking on the door and this time I also heard my name being called. And I suddenly realized it is my client knocking on the door. She was there with her problem of bed bug biting her everywhere. It was not easy for her, for sure. Bugs were biting on all most all her body and she could not sleep like that. So I found one solution that she will take a blanket from my room and will use the blanket instead of her sleeping bag. She will change all her clothes so the bug will no more exist in her body, cloth or bed. I gave her a blanket and she went to her room. In the morning she was fine and we found the reason why she was getting that problem? It was because she was playing with a mountain dog while being at the warm dining and the dog was trying to get warmth from her body snuggling through her leg. That was the dog that has the bugs in her dress or body.
Talking about the specific day, we had our breakfast 15 minutes later than the scheduled time, regarding the problem that we have encountered last night. After breakfast, we started our walk, by that time the mountains were cool looking but the temperature was clod for sure. We did not stop trekking until we get the sun to hit our cold feet and hands. In the cold weather, the view of mountains and the trekking itself was memorable and was nice. We were feeling the cold but the view was making forget all those pain we were suffering in the cold. Before the sun came we pass by the research station “pyramid”. This is the research station for measuring the mountain height and the weather in the Everest region. This pyramid is also the weather forecaster for the Everest expedition, The project was co-ordination between the Italian government and Nepal Government.
After walking for an hour we get to the sun and it was a nice feeling of that time. We took rest and went to find a stone to pee because in the trekking where there is no tree line in the mountain trek we find a big stone and hide from other people and do pee or poo. It might feel annoying but there is no other option than that.
After sun break we started our trek to Everest base camp. We trekked on the top Khumbu glacier, lots of stones, boulders, pebbles were annoying during the trek. But the view on the trail was greater than where we were trekking. Our eyes were flourished with the view of tiny mt Everest, mt Nuptse from top to the bottom, Mt Pumori showing up as huge pyramid in front of us and many other mountains above 6 thousand meters. Many ups and downs on the rough trekking trail to Everest base camp were more annoying than the charm of Everest base camp itself.
After 4 hours of walking, we reached the last village of the Everest region. Village Gorakshep was right next to Kalapatthar and the Khumbu glacier. On the entire trekking, Gorakshep will have the worst sleeping experience. And as a trekking guide, this village Gorakshep is something annoyingly accepted thing. The top of Kalaptthar has the great view of Everest base camp an the Khumbu glacier, sunset and sunrise from the top of Kala Patthar is stunning for sure, Everest base camp is nice and a place to find peace in earth; but ironically as a guide we have been there for uncountable times and that is what makes is to accept the day annoyingly and unknowingly.
After checking in the hotel in Gorakshep we had our lunch and started trek to Ebc. Trekking over the glacier once again with little ups and downs took 3 hours to get to Everest base camp. From 5180 Gorakshep to 5364meters/ 19000ft Everest base camp; was a tough but beautiful hike. As we have started the trek from the Lobuche and have already walked for 3 hours and was above 5000meters was not a child game for sure. But the mysterious view of the mountains, blue sky is seen during the trek, view of the glacier and the small lakes exposed on the Khumbu glacier, a closer look of Everest, Avalance caught while trekking on the rocky trail, view of the never-ending mountain range was outstanding. To memorize all these beauties of the trek to Everest base camp was not as hard as the pain we had on the trail. Even as a guide it is not strange to have a headache and I had that but the stunning view of the trek would overcome all of these sufferings. Meanwhile, my guests were super fine.
Superfit guests who were cyclists did Everest base camp and Kala Patthar on the same day. It was not easy to do 12 hours of trekking in a single day. We walked from 5000 meters to 5364 meters above sea level and came back to 5180 meters at Gorakshep. Right after coming to the base we again started our expedition to Kalapatthar. Trekking from Gorakshep 5180 meter to top of the Kala Patthar 5545 meters above the sea level was not just tough but it was hilarious. But my fit guest did it both at once
The regular thing to do in Everest base camp trekking is to trek from Lobuche and do base camp of Everest and sleep at the tea house in Gorakshep. And climb Kala Patthar on the second day. But today we did both at one go.
When we were trekking to the Everest base camp, the head was bumping and the trek was getting nicer and nicer getting near to Everest base camp. Once we got to the base camp we took pictures of the base camp. Getting to the Everest base camp, most of the people get a bad headache and they want to get back to Gorakshep as soon as possible, but my fit guest stayed there for approx. 30 minutes and did not take the regular picture but they climbed a giant rock and took a picture on the top of it. Kind guests helped me to make the video for Nepalgram, the video of Everest base camp and Everest base camp Chola pass trek. After spending enough time at the Everest base camp we came down to Gorakshep.
After trekking in the rocky trail of Everest base camp to Gorakshep we went to the tea house at Gorakshep to get more water. After getting 1-liter water for ourselves, we started our expedition to Kala Patthar. The trek uphill to Kala Patthar was all uphill and the definition behind the name, Kala Patthar is its stone color. I mean, if you translate Kala Patthar in Nepali words, Kala = black and Patthar = stone. So this is basically the hill of black stone right on the side of Everest base camp and right ahead of Gorakshep.
When we started trekking downhill from Kala Patthar the sunset and the change of color in the mountains were awesome. We saw golden light on Everest and other mountains on its side. We took lots of pictures, we talk about the stars coming out in the sky but they never came out. But still, we saw two stars near the half-moon. On the way uphill to Kala Patthar, we were lucky to see Avalance on Nuptse and on the way down were lucky to see clear blue sky and change of color on the mountain range and mt.everest herself.
We got back to the guest house in Gorakshep, ordered our dinner and talked about how tough is Kala Patthar and how we managed it. After waiting for an hour guests got their dinner and after night briefing I had mine. In the briefing, I talked about the next day’s walk to Zongla and the lunch place and how they need to be ready with the weather tomorrow. Talked about the gears for the next day, water and the lunch place at Lobuche.
We went to bed; the bed was so so so much cold. Normally guides do not get rooms, and they need to sleep in the dining which is colder than in the small rooms. All the guest thinks the dinning in the mountain is warmer than the room, that is false. In the dining, the fire does not last all night and once the light is gone the dining room gets the outdoor temperature in Everest base camp. But I was lucky to get a room on the ground floor. It was colder than expected. The sleep was not great but I had a room partner with an interesting background of being local porter to the trekking guide for Everest.
He was sharing stories about carrying local stuff from Jiri to Namche. Trekking trails from Jiri to Namche and how he keeps knowledge of that. He was 40 years old and he has lots of stories to share, those stories became bedtime stories and I did not found when I slept.
Day 08 Gorakshep to Zongla 4835 meters above sea level, towards the Chola pass for Gokyo valley 4850 meters.
In the morning at 6 am my roommate has the plan to go to Everest base camp with his clients. At that time I woke up and went to the toilet and I went into the warm bed for an hour longer. After getting warm in the bed it was time to get the warmness of the sun. I went to the dining and checked if my clients were up there. But an interesting thing that I found on the go was, one of the clients cancel his breakfast order, and the reason was his vomiting and headache. It was interesting things to see someone who was super fit yesterday was having a bad time today. He was not bad but was not feeling good, and that was normal in trekking above this altitude in the mountains and it is Everest base camp trek.
He was good after ginger tea and we started our trek to Zongla. The trek was on the same trekking route till bit further from Lobuche village and then before the Thukla pass where the memorials are, the trail to Chola pass Gokyo trek did split from the trail of Everest base camp trail.
We took a narrow trail to Chola pass, the speed wind on the narrow trail was harder but the scenery of mountains was awesome. We could see people trekking on the uphill of Thukla village top of Thukla pass, we could stare at the mountains (the entire range from Mt Pumori to Mt Cholatse). Also, we could see the river valley of Pheriche and we could imagine where was Dingboche and I long did we trekked in our previous days to Everest base camp Kala Patthar. The view was amazing and the trail was outstanding. My clients were happy to be in this part of the Everest trail. They were admiring how beautiful is the view and they forgot the small trail and the narrow trekking path we were trekking in the blowing wind.
After walking a little bit we got near to Chola lake, the green lake was amazing. View of the lake started today itself as it is our trekking towards Gokyo trek. Gokyo lake trek is famous for 6 different cascade lakes and we got to see Chola lake even before doing Chola pass and it was an amazing trek of the day. On the trail, we talked about the local porters and trekking porters in Nepal. We talked about the lakes in Gokyo valley. Talked about climbing Cholatse and climbing Taboche peaks. We talked about the high camp of Lobuche peak and climbing the Lobuche peak as well. As we could see a trail from a base camp of Lobuche peak to the high camp of Lobuche peak, it became easy for me to explain the route to Lobuche peak climbing.
After 3 hours of trekking from Lobuche village the lunch place, we reached Zongla village. On arrival at Zongla 4835 meters, my clients were exhausted. We took rest in the beautiful dining and then we all washed our shocks and stayed in the dinning, the warm dining.
For dinner, we had Dal Bhat in a royal way. It was more like luxury trekking as we were only the guest in the tea house at Zongla. It was a nice evening, where we talked bout Nepali politics, a royal massacre in Nepal, a civil war in Nepal and the present political situation of Nepal. After Dinner, I did a briefing about the trekking over the Chola pass. We talked about how hard is the trail and how much we need to take water, how much was uphill and downhill till we do the Chola pass was the main concern. After all these talks we went to bed for awaited Gokyo valley trek after Chola pass and Gokyo Ri after Gokyo village stay.
Day 09 Over the Pass 5420 meters reached Gokyo Valley
As I have already mentioned about how much fit my clients are, so we made over the Pass and all the way to Gokyo Lakes or Gokyo valley. Gokyo is one of the famous and demanding places for all the people traveling to Nepal.
We started the trek from the royal stay at Zongla at 7 AM in the morning. We were supposed to leave at 6:30 AM for the Chola pass but we did not make it in time because of many reasons. When we started the trek the sun was hitting the mountains, especially Mt Cholastse which was right in front of us. We walked along the flat plateu near Zongla towards the pass of Chola 5420 meters above the sea level. When we were crossing the pass of Chola (Cho la pass takes us to the Gokyo valley in Everest region) there were many people on the top but in the beginning, there were o people at all. As for the fit group, we must have had overtaken many groups on the way.
The trail towards the Chola pass was interesting. If you are traveling solo to Everest and if you want to do Chola pass this might not be a good idea. After getting towards the pass from Zongla village, you will walk towards the mountains which look unreal. As passes are mean to cross the range of the mountains, the narrow mountain and the shortest part of the range, this is what we were approaching.
The trail to Cho la pass was easy at the starting. Beautiful Mt Cholatse, Mt Amadablam were overlooked by the trail of the Everest region. But after an hour of walk, we started to walk uphill in the rocks. After a while, we started to climb the rock. It was a mountain rock climbing that my clients were experiencing on the day of Chola pass. They were nervous about how it will be, in the meantime we got to climb up to the Everest base camp side top of the Cho La pass. The climb must be approximately 30 minutes but it was the suffering of Cho la pass to the maximum. After holding the stone with hands and pushing stones with legs on the back we reached to EBC side top of Cho La pass.
From the EBC side top, the view of the mountain range was gorgeous. We could see Mt Makalu in the distance that is the fifth highest mountain in the world. We can see mt Amadablam as a giant piece of Khumbu range. The stunning view of Amadablam was admiring. I cannot say the beauty of these mountains and the entire surrounding range. We had our snack on that top and stared at the mountains before the clouds came to curtain them. We could see people approaching us and suffering, guides helping them and the silence of the rock, mountain, and the snow.
After having our snacks, we started trekking over the pass. We took our mini spikes (also called crampons) and started on trekking over the ice. When I was here last time the blue ice and the pricking top of the pass were not easy to cross Cho la pass. But this time the scenario of the Cho La pass was different. The fresh snow has made the trail easier, it was more like walking on the flat land of ice. But it was impossible without mini spikes. We all had the crampons, so we did the trekking over the ice easily. We took videos, photos on the pass and had a really good time walking on the ice.
The technical climbing near to the top of the Cho La pass was easier than last time. The fixed rope near to the pass was easy but still technical to climb to get to the top of the Pass. Top of the Cho la pass is with flags, prayer flags, Buddhist flags and few crows in the middle of many peoples.
On the top, we had our pack lunch and the cloud started coming on our head. We took some pictures of groups and single pictures and started walking down. Right after starting to walk down, we met a few big groups from AKTIFERIANS and other companies coming to the top of Chola from the Gokyo side. In general climbing to the top of the Chola pass from the Gokyo, the side is considered as the worst idea. But, there were people doing so.
Why it is hard to climb Chola pass from the Gokyo side? It is because from the village Thangnak itself, the trekking is uphill and the rocky part of the climb before getting to the top of Chola pass top is more than 2 hours itself. Near to the top of the Chola pass from Thangnak side, the loose rock of the trekking trail was tricky. Trickey and technical hike uphill is not recommended. Apart from that, the trail from the Gokyo side has longer uphill trekking than from EBCside. From the EBC side uphill is approx. 3 hours and the technical part is less than an hour. Also for the iced walk part, the trekking trail from Everest base camp side is easier. As it is easier to walk uphill in the ice, the Everest base camp side has an uphill trekking trail in the icy part of the walk. And also the trail from Everest base camp side takes trekkers in the top with strong legs, however from the Gokyo side trekker will be weak on getting to the top, because of long long uphill.
We descended from the top of the Chola pass and encountered many interesting things. We saw people suffering on doing trekking to Chola pass from the Gokyo side. I lead the group to the short cut trail and it was a wild walk on the rock. I saw Ralph taking picture of the stones and the trail we have walked, so I thought he must have enjoyed this as an adventure with Nepalgram Adventure. After trekking on the top of the rock we tracked on the trail and saw an old French couple suffering towards the top. Women were more like a drunk and the guide was supporting from the behind. It was so caring thing to see.
After crossing the rocky trail we took a long break, we looked at the sky, looked at the clouds, the clouds on the same sky moving in the opposite direction at the same time, saw porters walking faster than expected. It was interesting to see things going around in the peaceful environment of Gokyo valley. After a long break and snacks, we trekked downhill to Thangnak. Trekking from the top of Cho la pass 5420 meters to Thangnak at height of 4700 meters was a big descend and there we could feel the change in the altitude.
On arrival at Thangnak after crossing the rockfall zone and the landslide area on the trail from Chola top to Thangnak, we took another long break in the local guesthouse in Thangnak village. We were not decided to stay in Thangnak or walk across the Nangzomba glacier to get to the Gokyo village. I have had already booked a room at Thangnak but clients were more interested to go to Gokyo lake. As per the interest of Gokyo lake, we had tea in the guest house which I had booked and then started to trek to Gokyo valley. As Gokyo village is on the side of the Gokyo lake, trekkers trekking to Everest base camp Chola pass love to be in this place. So did my clients and we decided to trek another 3 hours over the glacier. The glacier walks inside the mysterious cloud was nice for me as I was used to watching the scenery of moutans around Mt chou and the glacial lakes. But for the guests, I felt sorry that they missed the view that would be seen from the trekking from glacier walk.
After several uphill treks and rocky trail trek on the top of the Nangzonba glacier, we started our uphill trek towards the Gokyo village. After trekking for 30 minutes the lake of Gokyo exposed in the misty cloud, the cloud was dense but the view of Gokyo lake and village was nice enough to sweeten our tired eye.
We went to the guest house in Gokyo. The guest house was nice in the Gokyo village but we have not booked a room as we were supposed to stay at Thangnak village itself, clients got the bad room, as they said. But to compensate for the situation, we changed the blanket and offered them 2 extra blankets to keep themselves warm. After fixing the room issue, I met my friend of Gokyo, clients came to dinning, ordered the Dinner and did after dinner briefing. In the briefing, we decided to go for Gokyo Ri after sunrise, in the warm temperature. We talked about the crowd of people in the guest house. We shared our thoughts on Sherpa people and how they are sponsored by foreigners. I talked about how much a tea house like this would make in cash.
After food and briefing of the night, we went to bed for bed, keeping in mind that we will trek to the top of Gokyo Ri the next day. The height of the Gokyo Ri is 5360 meters above the sea level. This height is less than the height of Cho la pass, less than the height of the Everest base camp. That is why we were happy and excited about the view from the top of the Gokyo Ri. I explained about the view of the entire mountain range that can be seen from the top of Gokyo Ri. I also told them the photo on the cover page of a lonely planet book. I talked about the cascade pattern of the lake and how we will be able to see 2lakes from the top.
From the top of Gokyo Ri, we can see almost half of the mt Everest, this must-have encouraged them to wake 6 am in the morning. With this deal of climbing to the top of Gokyo Ri, we went to bed and slept warm in the cold of Gokyo village near Gokyo lake. Gokyo village is on the side of the third Gokyo Lake.
Day 10 Climbing Gokyo Ri and trek down to Macchermo from Gokyo village
In the morning at 6:30 Am, we had our breakfast and started trek to the Gokro Ri summit. From the guest house we have stayed at Gokyo we were needed to cross inlet of the 3rd lake by the side of the village. We trekked across the river, which was feeding the lake, in fact, the lake is fed by the water coming from the 4th lake. Where the fourth lake is filled with water from the fifth lake of Gokyo and fifth Gokyo lake by 6th lake respectively. 6th lake is near Cho yu base camp in the valley of Gokyo.
We were trekking across the 3rd Gokyo lake and one of my clients slipped in the lake water. The lake water was cold to -10 degree Celcius, he fell and drawn half. His lower body was completely wet, and he went to change his cloth to the hotel. I stayed by the lake making the stack of the stone, playing with the water and trying to spend the time to my best. After waiting for 20 minutes he came back with his new dry cloth. By that time I made a stack of stone, video of yak crossing the lake inlet, video of trekkers crossing the lake and some pictures of reflection of Pheri Lapcha.
He came and we started our trekking uphill to the top of Gokyo Ri. The top of the Gokyo Ri has a great view of Everest, Mt Cho yu, Mt Nirekha, Mt Kyanchunkang, Mt Chamar, Mt Chumbu and many other named and un-named mountains. From the top of the Gokyo Ri, we also saw the pass towards Thame called Renjo la pass. We got a great view of Nangzonba glacier that cames from the base camp of Cho you. The view of 3rd lake and 2nd was an outstanding view from the top of Gokyo Ri.
From the top of the Gokyo Ri at 5360 meters, we could see the picture of the Nepal book (of Lonely planet) in real. We saw a half of Everest as the view of Everest was just the top from Kalapatthar or most of the places in the Everest base camp trek trail. Once we get to the top we saw clear scenery of Mt chamar on the other side however clouds on the top of Mt Everest and the surrounding mountain were annoying and mysterious at the same time.
As the weather on the top of Gokyo Ri was a misty and we did not have that great view, we decided to trek down to Gokyo. On the way down we talked about Nagjumba glacier, Renjo La pass, trekking in India and the tourism business in Nepal. While trekking to the Gokyo village for our way don after completing Everest base camp and Gokyo trek we took a long break staring at the lake of Gokyo. In the middle of the Gokyo Ri trail, I went to pee and that is how I was behind the clients. During that time I made a video of Gokyo lake and people trekking by the side and on the trail of Gokyo Ri. Even though I was behind I catch clients before they got to the lake of Gokyo. I was literally running down the hill like a wild yak. It was a nice memory but not a safe trekking idea.
Once we got to the local guesthouse at Gokyo village, we went to the dinning with our backpacks ready and ordered our lunch for the day. We had our quick lunch and started our trekking downhill to Machhermo village. By the time we started our trekking downhill, the trail was misty. We started trekking downhill on the side of the lake. We started our trek by the side of the 3rd lake. Making a background as 3rd lake, my lovely client made me a video review. After the video review, we started trekking to the second lake. After passing by the first lake we saw a group of Singaporean trekkers taking a break on the side of the trekking trail. Said them Namaste and continued our trek to Fanga village
At Fanga village the trail of Portse to Everest base camp splits. By the time we were at Fanga village the trail was much more cloudy and fewer people. It was more like ready to snowfall, the weather was different than other days. If the weather was clear we could have seen the river valley of Gokyo and the mountains from the end of the valley at the base of Khumbu mountain range. Mt Kang Tega and mt Thamsherku have their best view on this trekking trail, but my client missed it as it was al cloudy. Thinking so I asked my clients if they want a break in Fanga village, They agreed.
For a break, I choose a local guest house. This local guest house was nice with bakery items and warm tea, this helped us to warm our had from the windy cold on the trekking trail by the side of the river. While we were having tea at the tea house, we talked about a black forest in Germany, talked about black forest cake, sheep, yak, snow cock, mountains and people in the mountains of Nepal. Meanwhile, there were other two trekkers coming in the restaurant of the tea house to ask for bakery items, but they did not buy any.
After the tea break, we started trekking in the wind and mist of the cloud. The trek was in the flat terrain towards the could. The wind was chilly and the visibility was too low. But still, we could see trekkers walking on the ridge of the Machhermo. The ridge on the north of Machhermo village is the perfect viewpoint that corresponds to the Gokyo RI view. The view of the Khumbu Himalaya range and Everest is seen outstanding from this part of Gokyo lake. At the end of the ridge at Deurali, we met those trekkers coming back from the viewpoint and heard their admiring voice.
From the top, we trekked 20 minutes down and stayed at the local guesthouse in Machhermo. The owner of the tea house was nice (said by my client – he fell in love with the Sherpa women). We got our rooms for the cold night and spent most of the time in the warm dining. After dinner at Machhermo at 4400meters above the sea level, we went to bed with goodbye notes.
Day 11 Trek to Namche
Trekking from Machhermo 4400 meters to Namche Bazaar was long trekking in the magnificent trekking trail of the Everest Gokyo trail. Before having breakfast we were looking at the yummy breakfast of the Korean group right next to us. I made a video of Kajyo Ri and made Kyajo RI climbing itinerary for a new product. After coming to breakfast time, we fasten our bag and started trekking to Namche.
Before we left the Korean trekking group was doing yoga in the Himalaya. It was an awesome session, I thought of making yoga products in the mountains of Nepal and led the group towards dole. Till we get to Dole we talked about winter season for trekking in Nepal, spring vs autumn for trekking in Nepal, Dole village, signal coverage, German mountaineers, Choyu expedition, an expedition from the Tibet side and many more. It was an easy walk by the side of the river and the towering mountains. We met many trekkers hiking towards Gokyo village and their short of breath on trekking uphill made me think of myself on the way up to Everest base camp trail.
After walking for 3 hours we get to Dole village and took a break for cherry, nuts, chocolate and water break from a nice viewpoint. After the break enough to rest our leg; we started trekking to the jungle of Everest. It was a nice feeling to get back to the jungle after days of trekking higher in the mountains where even the bushes were rare in existence. Getting back to the jungle, I got a signal on my phone and mum was calling me to know if I was doing okay. On the phone, I talked about renting a room in Kathmandu, trekking permit to Manaslu, updates of a group leaving to Manaslu and many other family matters.
After trekking through the jungle and checking out of Dole checkpoint in the national park area, we took our lunch break at Pprtse tanga. A nice Dal Bhat for me and noodle for the clients was a beast diet to walk uphill to the top of Mong village. Mong Village is believed to be a village where lama Syange Dorje used to fly from Tengboche directly. The uphill to Mong village was Killing. Although I couldn’t help them much, I helped with a water bottle of Ralph, so he could walk easily by losing a little weight. And he did the prefect to keep his pace of trek all the way up to Mong village.
Reached at Mong and took a short break and continued walking downhill from mong towards Namche. At the beginning of the trekking downhill, our plan was to stay at Khumjung village and visit the Everest view hotel. But on the trekking trail, we changed our mind to go all the way to Namche. Whatever the decision, it was cloudy and the walk was downhill so we decided to walk straight away without rest. As it was cloudy, it was cold and we could not see the towering peaks of Everest. It is strange how the weather in Everest has changed in these 2 days.
After walking for an hour we reached Kyanjuma village, near Kyangjuma we saw Himalayan Pheasant which is also a national bird of Nepal. The variety color of this bird’s feature spent our 20 minutes, it is the nicest bird; I would say. After taking pictures of the bird we continued walking and the trek was back to the main trail of Everest base camp trekking highway. The flat road and easy trekking made our conversation interesting. We trek and talked about the king, Nepali politics, next vacation, and many other random topics. We were running for fun and talking about the trekkers we have seen on the Chola pass and base camp. We compared how less the people are on Cho la pass side of the trekking trail and the amount of crowd in the Everest base camp trail.
After walking in the mysty for 3 hours we get to the top of Namche Bazar. Namche was under the cloud and we could not see the semi-elliptical shape of the Namche village itself. However, it was way easier to trek when there is no snow to melt our sweat. On arrival at the hotel at Namche, we took rest for a bit and once we got the key we used in the cold rooms of Everest. Hotels in Namche with much more facility than other places in Everest. Once trekkers to Everest base camp get back to this suburb they feel back to the civilization. On the way to our accommodation in Namche, I showed clients, the saloon, massage place and the way to iris pub and bakeries. It was a cold night to walk, so we decided to take a shower after days of trekking and stayed warm in the dinning.
Later in the night, we had our dinner and I was fixing the flight issues as we were coming one day earlier than scheduled. After dinner, I talked about the trail and how they need to be ready, and we all went to sleep for the good night. I was excited to finish the trekking of Everest, finish the trekking to cold. The last night at Namche and the last day of trek tomorrow was exciting as always.
Day 12 – Trek from Namche to Lukla – 8 hours – Namche 3440 m to Lukla 2880 meter
I wake up at 6 in the morning, talked with my girlfriend from the warm bed. I told her the bed is too warm but the environment is like in Antarctica, so I wanted to sleep more. Saying so, I mean I never like to wake early in the morning but we need to wake early and be in time for breakfast. In accordance, I wake up, pack the bag quick and went to dinning. The clients were not yet there, but still, I confirmed if our breakfast was ready. Once they came into the dining hall, we had our breakfast and decided to leave as soon as everyone is ready. I was ready and left the room with a packed bag already, so I told them to come to the main gate of the hotel. While I was waiting for clients to come to me, I was watching porter packing bags, foreigners making a handful of fun in the morning, sunshine in the mountains and the increasing temperature of the Everest region for the day.
After everyone was ready to leave Namche bazaar, we started walking through the alley of Namche bazar. Clients were looking at souvenir and though it is expensive than in Kathmandu, so decided to buy in Thamel. But they bought some toiletries and we kept trekking through the street of Namche. Yak bells, woolen clothes, department stores, book shops, map houses, ATMs in Namche were not easily expected things in the Himalayas. Namche bazar is not remote as you would imagine. One can carry enough cash and buy everything needed for the trek at Namche bazar. There is no road in Namche but the helicopter is like flying cars in this suburb of Nepal. A real city in the Himalaya of Everest base camp trekking trail, it is fascinating.
Before getting out of the gate if Namche bazaar we saw a group of people sending garbage of Everest to Kathmandu. We decided to help to carry a bag of garbage to Lukla, took the bag, wrote the name and added some extra load for the hike of 9 hours to Lukla from Namche. With the backpack I made a video for the last day of trekking to Lukla from Namche, it was a nice piece of video for Everest base camp trekking. Ralph helped me with this video capturing.
After the video, we took pictures of Namche bazar, a good view from a little bit far from the gate of Namche. Leaving Namche behind in the narrow valley on the foot of Mt Khumbila, we started our descent followed by a police checkpoint, Everest viewpoint (last one), high raised suspension bridge, national park entrance, lunch place, and few waterfalls of Everest trekking trail. During the trek we talked about yaks, the difference between mule and horse, horse vs mule vs donkey vs yak, talked about how powerful are Jockey and talked about the mountains and peak climbing in Everest.
As trekking from Namche to Lukla is usually the last day of trekking and it is downhill, so we just walk as fast as we can complete the last day. The rush is to complete the multi-day trek in Everest, accordingly, this was moderately long trekking with 5420-meter high pass and long hours of walking. So we decided to walk faster and get faster to Lukla bazaar.
On the trail ae took pictures of tall bridge on Everest base camp trail, we crossed 6 suspension bridges and in one of the bridge, we got stocked with traffic of yaks and mules. These two animals are transporters of Everest, whereas human transporters are for sensitive utensils and beverages. Near Monjo village, we got to wait for the caravan of yak and mules to give passage. It was a long break and was nice for legs and back with ache.
At the Sagarmatha national park gate we checked out permits of trekkers and we got out of Everest base camp officially. The number of trekkers going up to Everest base camp was more than the previous days while we were trekking uphill towards Everest base camp and over the Chola pass. We passed by many trekkers who were really happy to be in this peaceful nature, but we were talking about how poor are they to be unknown about how miserable is their few weeks gonna be. The cold was not nice in the mountains but the wider range of Everest region was excellent. To watch the contrast of stars and the white mountains were awesome were cold during the night was not adorable. We were talking about this pitty situation going on them, which they were unknown about.
After walking for 4 hours we took our lunch break in front of a waterfall at Tuk Tuk. Tuk Tuk is a small village in the Everest base camp trekking trail with a view of the narrow escaping valley and by the riverside. After having lunch we started our trek towards Phakding. Till Phakding, the trekking trail was downhill and easy for the legs, but after that, the trekking tends to 9o degree and we began to trek uphill by then. Walking through the village by the side of the Dudh Koshi river we got to see a few cows and animals.
The group of kids coming out of school was nice. We chatted with them and took some of them along with us, talking with them, asking what they read at school and how are they. In the end, we made them our friends and gave them one chocolate each. After walking for an hour from Phakding we took a break for the toilet and the guest house we stayed to belong to a mountain climber. Climber Tsering has done Everest, Mt Amadablam, Mt Lhotse, Mt Choyu and other famous peaks of Nepal; not just once but several times. He was a legend more than a man. At this time, Tsering was not at home, we were doing Mera peak expedition, we talked about his mountaineering with his wife and spend tea time at the hotel of a mountaineer.
After tea, we started trekking to Lukla, passed by many porters who were carrying meat on a basket and the smell did not interest me. But it was amazing to see more than 10 baskets of meat being carried towards the base camp of Everest. To let you know, in the Everest base camp region, you cannot kill animals all the mountain regions of Nepal are considered holy. The mountains of Nepal or Asia are connected with the story of god and the godling stories are fascinating. This is the reason to carry all those baskets full of meat and porters were transporting to all the destinations in the Everest trekking trail.
In Lukla, the hot shower and chilled beer were waiting for us, but before getting to the final stop of trekking end, we were tired and no longer wanted to be drunk. Around 5 in the evening we reached Lukla, and interestingly there were planes in the airport of Lukla. Weather of Lukla was so nice and the flights were carrying people to Ramchechhap and Kathmandu till late.
Once we entered the city of Lukla, we checked into the hotel near the airport (Tenjin Hillary airport). The small world made us meet old fellow trekkers whom we met at 4300meters. He was drinking local alcohol from Everest called “Raksi”. We met him and talked about how we did not see on the way up to Everest base camp. We figured out how the weather was for both of us and how beautiful were the days up in Everest base camp. By the time we were talking about the mountain, I felt like all of them forgot how much did they suffer on trekking.
The hotel in Lukla was busy and we planned to order dinner. By the time I ordered the dinner for guests, it was the last order, so the food came later than everyone, my clients were hungry and they must have had some reservation on me, finally. As it was the last night at the mountain dinning of Everest gateway, all the trekkers were buying either drinks or food for their guides and porter. Some of them were tipping guides and porters and were thanking them. Some of the groups were celebrating the success of trekking with cake and candles in the mountains. It was interesting to see the drunken guides and porter talking with their guests in the friendliest way I had ever seen. But I was trying to figure out the flight to respond it as we were at Lukla a day earlier than our flight. It was not easy but I fixed the issue of flight.
After dinner, I briefed clients about the next day, told them the time of the flight to Ramechhap and decided to go sleep for the night.
Day 13 – Lukla to Ramechhap flight
In the morning we had breakfast at 7 AM and went to the airport at 9 AM. We stayed at the airport all day and flew at noon. This time frame was never easy to explain to my guest and I never enjoyed it in my trekking guide career. As it used to happen in the early days, the same thing happens with me today, I was running from the flight company’s desk to clients and back and forth. It was an interesting but hectic responsibility I was assigned by myself.
When it was too much of waiting, I told clients to take a break and go for the walk around the village of Lukla. They went and told me that they had some mom o from the mountains and went to the local monastery of Lukla. I was happy to listen to that thinking that was a great idea to distract the delay in flight. I was a guide know, the delay is a normal thing but for my clients, it was never easy to understand and I never felt easy to explain the situation. Even after decades, I feel the same level of stress, when it comes to explaining the delay of a flight and random happenings in the flights to Lukla.
At noon we sit on the plane, I told my clients to take the right seat for the mountain view; they did so, I sat on the right side of the plane. After some shaky flights, with little air turbulence and nice scenery from the air, we reached Ramechhap airport. Ramechhap airport was not new to me as it was my hometown. But the temperature of Ramechhap was worse than expected. We just landed from the bottom of Everest to the side of the river and that is how the hot was unbearable. Right after getting off of the plane we took Bus to Kathmandu.
The bus journey from Ramechhap to Kathmandu was not bad at all until it got into a traffic jam near the entrance of Kathmandu. On the road, we pass by hill road, red mountains, and the general Nepali villages. It was a nice bus tour. I enjoyed it, made some friends on the bus and talked about mountains, expedition and next trekking for the end of the season.
On the way to Kathmandu, we took a lunch break and had naan, momo, and some curry. After lunch, the drive was to the evening. When the bus got into the traffic jam, I felt worst and started thinking, why did not we fly to Kathmandu?
By 7 Pm we got off at Bhaktapur. I took a taxi to go to Bhaktapur durbar square and clients had their best and I went to my room to family.You might like our other stories.
Your Might like our other rich stories :-
1 – Family of Himalaya
2 – Useful for Langtang
3 – Easy Everest Trek