Mt. Pumori Expedition (7161m/27,494ft) will test your endurance and climbing skills, but like all mountains, the rewards will overwhelmingly compensate for the effort required to reach its summit. Mt. Pumori is located on the border of Nepal in the Mahalangur Himal in the Himalayas, stretching from Nangpa La Pass between Rolwaling Himal and Cho Oyu, to the Arun River.
It includes Mount Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu — four of earth’s six highest peaks. Pumori means “the Mountain Daughter” in the Sherpa language. ‘Pumo’ means young girl or daughter and ‘Ri’ means mountain.
This expedition requires you to have previous climbing experience and are familiar with the use of ropes and other mountaineering equipment. You will climb across glaciers and snow-covered ridges to reach the summit. This is not something for the faint-hearted! This is a genuine climbing expedition that requires climbing up 40 to 60-degree slopes.
Fortunately, you will be roped-off and will have some expert guidance before and during the climb. Several camps will be established at varying altitudes prior to ascending to the summit.
Pumori Expedition, This is one of the most popular and delightful mountains which is situated in the Northwest of Nepal, Khumbu Region. This is a moderate technical pyramid snow and rock mountain for climbing. Generally three camps are set in the approach above the base camp for climbing.
Our normal route is classic South-East Ridge for climbing. The summit from Pumori provides excellent photography views of snowy mountains which will be a great perception for mountaineers. Our mission is to lead the way for the best possible chance for success but adventure is one step beyond your expectation.
Pumori is one of the easier excess and challenging 7000m peaks in Nepal. It is attached with Kalapatthar ridge and cut by a glacier portion just below. Along the Kalapatthar climb up Mt Pumori is most stunning and looks one of the colossal one.
Climbing Pumori requires a moderate technical climb in ice and snow. Moreover, a good knowledge of alpine climbing techniques and familiarity with the effects of high altitudes are necessary. We take the classic route along with the southeast ridges: generally, three camps are set up at around 5300m.
First successful summit
In 1962, Gerhard Lenser of a German-Swiss expedition made the first successful summit of Mt. Pumori.
Route
The Pumori expedition commenced after a 30 minutes mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla . The trekking trails ascend till Gorakshep the last tea house of Everest region near by Everest base camp then Himalaya Journey Treks and expedition’s climbing guide will take you to Mt. Pumori base camp. Normally, Mountaineering in Pumori three camps are set in the approach above the Pumori base camp.
The normal route for the Mt. Pumori climbing is South East Ridge. For Pumori expedition the Pumori Base camp will be set up at 5300m. We climbed through the glaciers for approx. 4 hours and reached Pumori Camp 1 at 5700m. From Pumori Camp 1, we climbed 480m. on the face with 40-60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp 2 at 6200m. on a narrow ridge.
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From camp 2, we climb approx. 450m. through ice with 30-60 degrees slopes passing through ice walls and crevasses. This section is prone to avalanches from big seracs hanging on the shoulder above. Camp 3 will be set up at an altitude of 6480m. On the ridge . Passing through crevasses, we climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit of Mount pumori. After successfully submitting Pumori then trail return same to till lukla then by fly back to Kathmandu.
Mt. Pumori Expedition Routes via Kalapatthar:
- We take the classic route instead of the risky one via Kalapatthar. We attempt the summit through the South East Ridge route, which is the standard route. Pumori is a Grade 3 level climb, it isn’t extremely technical but requires a certain amount of understanding of mountaineering techniques and familiarity with high altitudes. Adventure Club Trek gives acclimatization a major priority during the expedition.
● Three camps are set up above Pumori Base Camp, which is at 5,300m. A 4-hour-long climb through the glaciers brings us to our first camp at 5,700m. The second camp is set at 6,200m and requires climbing the face of Pumori at 40-60 degree slopes. The third camp is at 6,480m and we get there climbing ice walls and crevasses. It is from camp 3, we pass through crevasses and the Pumori cliff to finally make it to the summit.
Adventure Club Trek has 10+ years of experience in high altitude expeditions and engages guides and mountaineers with 15+ years of experience in the field.
We also offer Ama Dablam Expedition – 30 days for those who want a shorter expedition in the Everest region. Adventure Club Trek also organizes the expedition to Mt. Everest. Check out our Everest Expedition via the South Side – 67 Days.
Outline Itinerary
- Day 1 – Arrive at Kathmandu international airport (1,345m)
- Day 2 – Pre-expedition meeting and a full day sightseeing in Kathmandu valley.
- Day 3 – Official formalities in Kathmandu.
- Day 4 – Final Preparation day in Kathmandu
- Day 5 – Fly to Lukla (2804m) and trek to Phakding (2,610m): 3-4 hrs trek
- Day 6 – Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440m): 5 – 6 hrs trek
- Day 7 – Rest at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization
- Day 8 – Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3,860m) : 5 -6 hrs trek
- Day 9 – Tengboche to Dingboche (4,350m) : 5 – 6 hrs. trek
- Day 10 – Dingboche to Lobuche (4940m): 5-6 hrs. trek
- Day 11 – Lobuche to Pumori Base Camp(5,300m): 6-7 hrs. trek
- Day 12 – (Days 12, 13 and 14) – Rest & acclimatization day in Pumori base camp. Visit Everest base camp as well.
- Day 15: 15 to 32 – Climbing Period.
- Day 33: Pumori Base Camp to Pheriche(4,240m): 6-7 hrs trek
- Day 15
- Day 34: Pheriche back to Namche Bazaar (3,440m): 3-4 hrs trek
- Day 35: Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2,804m) : 6-7 hrs trek
- Day 36: Fly back to Kathmandu
- Day 37: Leisure day in Kathmandu. We arrange farewell dinner for the group and guides.
- Day 38: Transfer to airport, departure on your own destination.
Download detailed Itinerary here
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Itinerary
Upon your arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM), you will be welcomed by a representative. After sorting out your custom formalities (visa and so on), you will be then transferred to your respective hotel and give you some time to freshen up. After this, you will attend an orientation about your trek led by the trekking leader over a welcome dinner. Overnight at hotel.
Today, we go on a sightseeing tour of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the city. We start the program after breakfast, first visiting the sacred Hindu temple of Pashupatinath. Though non-Hindus are not allowed inside the main premises of the temple we are allowed to visit the cremation site and surrounding areas. We then head to Boudhanath, considered one of the largest stupas in Asia due to the massive mandala that surrounds the main dome. The smell of Himalayan incense and locals doing kora(making clockwise rounds of the stupa) gives you a little insight on Buddhist culture. Our next stop is Swayambhunath also known as the Monkey Temple, located on top of a hill. The stupa is similar to Boudhanath, but here the stupa is surrounded by many temples and shrines. Some of the temples date back to the medieval Lichchhavi period. Our final stop is Kathmandu Durbar square which is a fine example of Newari architecture. The premises of the Durbar square house many temples and royal palaces, however, most of the temples and building were destroyed by the 2015 earthquake and are being renovated. Overnight in Kathmandu.
Today, we head to the Ministry of Tourism where a formal briefing is given. Also, our expedition leader will examine everyone’s equipment to check for any faults. Overnight in a hotel at Kathmandu.
This is the last day in Kathmandu before heading out to the Himalayas. If you have left out anything on your purchase list this is the time to stock it up. Overnight in a hotel at Kathmandu.
We board an early morning flight from TIA to Tenzing Hillary Airport in Lukla. It is considered one of the most scenic flights as we fly right beside some of the world’s highest mountains like Mt. Everest.
Upon our landing, our guide will assign one porter per two trekkers. As our team unloads our luggage we have some spare time to visit the small town of Lukla. After everything is set, we begin our trek heading down towards the Dudh Kosi river until we reach the main trail towards Namche Bazaar just above Chaunri kharka. It is an easy walk to Phakding after we walk past the small village of Ghat. Overnight in a teahouse at Phakding.
After leaving Phakding, our trail continues through pine and fir forest. We then walk along the banks of Dudh Kosi River, crossing it many time on our way to our destination, Namche Bazaar, known as the Gateway to Everest. The fantastic Mt.Thamserku accompanies us throughout most parts of the day. The trail climbs steeply after we enter the Sagarmatha National Park rewarding us with spectacular views of Mt. Everest peeking from the Lhotse-Nuptse ridge. On our final stretch to Namche, we cross a suspension bridge name Hillary bridge, the highest on our path today. Overnight in a teahouse at Namche Bazaar.
In order to enjoy a good trekking experience, acclimatization plays a key role. It helps to adjust our body quicker to the thinning air at high altitudes. At over 3,000m and with views of Mt. Everest, Namche Bazaar is a perfect place to acclimatize. The day starts off with a short trek up to the Everest View Hotel to enjoy the view of the mighty Everest followed by an exploration trip to the Syangboche Airport. A quick visit to the Sherpa Museum gives us a little insight into the history and culture of the locals. Next, we trek to Khumjung village, only if time permits as it is comparatively longer trip. Here we visit the monastery that has a ‘’Yeti’s head’’ on display. And, also go to the Edmund Hillary School. Overnight in a teahouse at Namche Bazaar.
We leave Namche Bazaar and walk beside the glacial river Dudh Kosi to first arrive at Phunki. The trail then climbs up to Tengboche where we spend the night. At Tengboche we are rewarded with spectacular mountain views of Thamserku, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam and Everest among others. The village houses Khumbu Region’s largest monastery, Tengboche Monastery. Inside there is a huge 20 foot statue of Buddha. Overnight in a teahouse at Tengboche.
Enjoy breakfast amidst serene mountain views before heading out to Dingboche. The trail to Dingboche starts off with a walk through rhododendron and coniferous forest. We then descend to Imja Khola until we cross a bridge over the magnificent river to arrive at Debuche. We continue on our journey, now, climbing up towards Pangboche. There are two routes to get there and we choose the upper path which provides fantastic Himalayan views. Upon reaching the Pangboche village we explore the Pangboche Monastery. After a quick visit, we head down towards Lobuche River after which the trail ascends to Dingboche, our rest stop for the night. Overnight in a teahouse at Dingboche.
Our trek to Dingboche kickstarts with a gradual climb to Duglha. The trail climbs steeper as we head to Chupki Lhara where we can see prayers flags as a tribute to Scott Fischer and Babu Chiri Sherpa(lost their lives during an expedition trip to summit Everest). Fischer was an American mountaineer and Babu was a Nepali guide who had summited Everest 10 times. We walk past the area towards the moraine of Khumbu Glacier surrounded by mountains like Pumori, Mahalangur Himal, Khumbutse and Lingtren among others. Here onwards it is an easy walk to Lobuche. Overnight in a teahouse at Lobuche.
We leave for Pumori BaseCamp after breakfast at Lobuche. We first ascend to Gorak Shep where we come across two paths; towards the Everest Base Camp and the other leading to Pumori Base Camp. We take the latter one. Overnight in a tented camp at the Pumori Base Camp.
We spend a few days at the Pumori Base Camp acclimatizing and preparing our body for the big day. We get familiar with our climbing equipment, using them during our training at Base Camp. We also learn to use fixed ropes to climb up and down. During our stay at the base camp, we also make trip to the Everest Base Camp. Here we enjoy spectacular views of the Khumbu Icefall, Mt. Nuptse, and Mt. Pumori among others. We again return to the Pumori Base Camp. Overnight in a tented camp at Pumori Base Camp.
There is no fixed itinerary for the climbing period as it will be determined by the expedition leader based on the fitness and the experience of the climbers. A flexible approach is taken to climb Mt. Pumori as to make it a pleasant experience to everyone involved. After acclimatizing at 5,300m in the Pumori Base Camp just above Gorak Shep we move to our next campsite that is Camp1 at 5,700m. Our second camp is set at 6,200m on ridge and the final Camp at 6,480m around a corner after a ridge. We spend around 15 day getting familiar with the condition at such high altitudes. A professional cook will prepare all three meals during our stay here. We sleep in high quality thermal tents, one person per tent. Most of the time will be spent going back and forth from Camp 1 to Camp 2; also the most technical part of the climb.
Camp 1: To summit Mt. Pumori at least three camps should be set up after the main Base Camp. The first camp is set at an altitude of 5,700m. We walk for 3 hours to get to this point, overcoming rocky paths, narrow ridge, and ice walls. We may require fixed ropes in some parts as the slopes are at a 65 degree angle.
Camp 2: The next camp is set at an altitude of 6,200m. This camp is located on a narrow ridge, safe from avalanches. We climb on ice using fixed ropes as the surface is angled from 35-65 degrees.
Camp 3: The third camp is set at 6,480m. From Camp 3 we can see the Tibetan Plateau. The camp is placed around a corner after a ridge.
There are two routes to summit Mt. Pumori, the normal route through the Pumori Base Camp and the another via South-West ridge. The latter route is a difficult one and is not undertaken by many. The route is from the top of Kalapatthar and straight up which extends to 75 degree. The route is risky so many take the normal route. If the guides and expedition leader give a green flag, we summit Mt. Pumori from Camp 3. On the big day we start early at around 2-3am with a target to reach the top by morning. We then head down to Pumori Base Camp for the night.
Today, we head down towards Pheriche from the Base Camp. We walk mostly downhill passing by Lobuche and Thukla Village. Magnificent views of Everest, Lhotse, Pumori and Ama Dablam among others make the journey exciting. Overnight in a teahouse at Pheriche.
We retrace our steps back to Namche Bazaar. The trail takes us through rhododendron and juniper forest, which then opens up to the village of Pangboche. We then head towards Imja Khola again through a forest to arrive at Tengboche. Through rhododendron and juniper forest, we come across a bridge over the Dudh Kosi River after which the trail drop down towards Sansa. We pass a chorten to finally arrive at Namche Bazaar. Overnight in a teahouse at Namche Bazaar.
We follow our steps back to Lukla, crossing a few suspension bridges and passing through a number of villages. Overnight in a teahouse at Lukla
Today, we head back to the capital city. We board an early morning flight from Tenzing Hillary Airport in Lukla to TIA in Kathmandu. Upon reaching Kathmandu you can opt to rest or roam around the city. You can also do some souvenir shopping. Overnight in a hotel in Kathmandu.
An extra day is set aside for flight delays from Lukla or any other unforeseen events. In case everything runs smoothly, this day is used us leisure day in Kathmandu. Our company will throw a farewell dinner party to all the trekkers and guides involved in the expedition. Overnight in a hotel at Kathmandu.
Adventure Club Trek will manage a farewell drive to the international airport for your final flight departure. Meeting you and serving you was a wonderful experience over the weeks. We are sure you enjoyed a wonderful holiday in beautiful Nepal. We hope you will remember us in the years ahead.
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