Makalu Expedition

Overview

Trip Overview

Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world and is considered the technical mountain to climb. Normally, four camps are set up in the approach excluding Advanced Base Camp which will be set up at 5,300m. We follow the lateral moraine, hike onto the glacier and set up Camp 1 at a glacial plateau at 6,150m. We further proceed along the glacier plateau in the direction to Makalu La, climbing stretches of steep slopes and arrive at the base of the Makalu La to set up Camp 2 at 7,000m. We climb the Messier Headwall towards the north west ridge at Makalu La and the site of Camp 3 at 7,300m. Camp 4 will be set up on the north ridge at 7,850m and we will climb up the couloir to reach the final ridge at the summit (8,462m).

Mt. Makalu is 8481 meters and it is the 5th highest mountain in the world and specific and it’s a very technical peak; it’s more technical than climbing Mt. Everest. Makalu Expedition is not a huge mountaineering challenge, it’s in the North East of Nepal. We fly from Kathmandu to Tumglingtar in the East and then we have got about a three and half hour rickety drive to the start of the trekking expedition. Makalu Trek Expedition is hence considered as quite technical. remote and challenging. Our route does transverse first climbing all the way to Neghe Kharka, crossing the Barun Khola flowing from Makalu. The route to Makalu Base Camp (4823m) involves a sustained period at altitude with some steep slopes, but rewards with powerful views of Makalu (8481m) to the north. This is the realm of the glaciers, surrounded by the unforgettable presence of the world’s mightiest mountains; and brooding above the towering bulk of Everest itself.

The climbing itself is appropriate for both the experienced climber and the novice climber making their first 8,000-meter peak ascent. The climbing consists of easy glaciers low on the mountain, steep ice and snow climbing to the Makalu La, and a final rock ridge to the summit above Camp IV. Makalu is a steep and consistent climb, and in the spring season has excellent snow coverage and low hazards like icefalls, rock falling, and avalanche. Nepalgram utilizes oxygen above 7,200 meters and Sherpa support with fixed ropes throughout the climb. Each climbing day is reasonable in length and difficulty. However, Nepalgram will provide only Base Camp Administrations for climbers who need to do the top in an unsupported style. The other energizing part of climbing Makalu is the absence of groups. While we hope to impart the mountain to different groups, they will be little and robust for the most part. It gives us support on the hill to establish the route and ropes but avoids any overcrowding common on other 8000-meter peaks.

The trekking into the base camp and Makalu is breathtaking and takes you back in time when you approached all Himalayan mountains on foot. After a 25 minute flight from Kathmandu to Tumlingtar, the trek begins from a low elevation of 920m. Climbers have a great chance to acclimatizes the trail goes through Num (1800m), Seduwa (1510m), Tashi Gaon (2070m), Khongma(3760m), Mumbuk (3550m), Yangri Kharka (3600m), Sherson (4800m) and finally Makalu base camp (4870m). It is the perfect way to acclimatize before base camp reach and to take on climbing relatively quickly.

Normally, we set up four camps in the approach excluding ABC at 5,700m. Following the lateral moraine and hiking onto the glacier, we plan to set up camp I at a glacial plateau at 6,150m further proceeding the direction of the glacier plateau towards Makalu Pass, climbing stretches of steep slopes and arriving at the base of the Makalu Pass to set up the camp II at 7,000m. We climb the Messner Headwall towards the northwest Ridge at Makalu La and the site of Camp III at 7,300m. Camp IV will be set up on the North Ridge at 7,850m and finally leap for the summit at 8,462m.

Makalu, the world’s fifth highest peak in the world rising to 27,765 feet (8,463 meters), which is beautiful and impressive massive is situated just 14 miles east of Everest in the Khumbu region. Its size alone is impressive, but it’s perfect pyramid structure with four sharp ridges makes this mountain all the more spectacular. Makalu has two notable subsidiary peaks. Kangchungtse, or Makalu II, 7,678 m (25,190 ft), lies about 3 km north-northwest of the main summit. Rising about 5 km north-northeast of the main summit across a broad plateau, and connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow, 7,200 m saddle, is Chomo Lonzo, 7,804 m (25,604 ft).

The name of the mountain was probably taken from the Sanskrit word Maha-Kala, which means Big Black and is a by-name of Shiva – one of the most important gods of Hinduism. Shiva is sometimes an evil, cruel destroyer but at other times he tends to be gentle and kind-hearted. The mountain has another name in the local dialect – Kumba karna, which means The Giant. Makalu has proved to be a challenging climb, as only five of its first sixteen attempts were successful. To date, there have been a total of 206 successful ascents of Makalu and a total of 22 fatalities.Prior to its first ascent in 1955, it was admired and studied by several Everest expeditions, but like a lot of other giants in the Khumbu region, it was not attempted until the summit of Everest was first ascended in 1954.

Route

Makalu expedition begins at Tumlingtar after an hour flight from Kathmandu. Makalu has many interesting routes leading to the summit via west ridge, west face, south face, southwest face and northwest buttress. The normal commercial route is past the Southeast Peak and along the Southeast ridge. The climb is straightforward but moderately technical with exposure on the SE Ridge; it requires some fixed rope set-up.

Makalu South East Ridge::

Makalu Base Camp (5600M/18,372ft):

Makalu Advanced base camp lies on a rocky moraine with amazing views of the Himalaya. For almost one month, comapny will set up an advanced base camp. On an 8000m, expedition climbers spend most of their time at base camp, so naturally, base camp becomes a home away from home on any long expedition. We establish our camp at a walking distance between different groups and a Makalu massif’s strategic view. Nepalgram provides a personal tent that becomes your private retreat, a dining tent, a common area, a shower tent, and a toilet tent. When you arrive at base camp, it will already be fully established, with hot beverages and snacks available immediately. There will be your base camp staff and high altitude climbing Sherpa. Before your climbing period, you will have a Puja ceremony at the base camp for good luck. This Nepalese tradition is not to miss, and it represents a safe climbing passage for everyone involved in the expedition.

Makalu Camp 1 (6400m/21,000ft)3-4hrs:

Once you have reviewed basic and advanced training by your climbing Sherpa guide, you will be ready for your attempt to climb to camp I, which is at the height of 6400m/21,000ft. You will encounter grassy slopes, rock slabs, and moraine in the first section of the glacier. Once on the glacier, you will experience mixed terrain, including a few crevasses and 200m of blue ice. The first section of climbing on the moraine takes about an hour after that, and you reach the crampon point at the glacier’s mouth; the glacier portion takes about 2 hours. For average climbers, it takes about 3-4 hours. Camp I is divided into two sections, the lower camp I and upper base I; the distance between the two is 100m/328ft. So base one is fixed between 6400m-6500m.

Makalu Camp 2 (6800m/22,310ft)2½hrs:

The climbing from camp I to camp II is considered the intermediate technical section on Mt. Makalu. During this section, you encounter the heart of ice and snow. The first section is slogging over snow for about an hour, and then you meet several steep areas of ice; there are small sections of ice fall that do not require a ladder. The support of fixed ropes areas can cross, a few significant steps, and some steep snow climbing. For most people, this is the crux of the route. This section will take slow climbers about 2½-3 hours. Camp 2 lies above the snowy terrace.

Makalu Camp 3(7450m/24,445ft)4hrs:

The distance from camp II to camp III is the most extended section of the route, and it extends 600m/1,968ft. It does not require any ladder crossings, but a few crevasses are roughly a half meter long that need to jump. A climbing Sherpa team fixes the main ropes. This section for most climbers feels more comfortable, but still, it is not to take lightly. The climbing is on sustained slopes, and there is exposure to cold and wind. However, there have been reports of direct sun hitting this section in spring, making it feel hot. The camp that 40% of climbers plan to do their summit push. However, Nepalgram always fixes camp IV before the summit so that clients can get a half night’s rest. This section takes about 4 hours for average climbers and 5 hours for slower and first time 8000m climbers.

Makalu Camp 4 (7900m/25,918ft):

Climbing from camp III to camp IV feels like a short day, the distance is short, but now you are nearing the death zone. The oxygen levels are deficient at this altitude, so it expects that any effort, no matter how minimal or trivial, will feel arduous. In this section, you have to climb for 3 hours on steep snow on a 50º-55º slope. This section is a little dangerous in the autumn season because the snow slope covers a layer of ice that makes the section avalanche prone. The reason that Nepalgram only operates in the spring season. Many consider the crux of t route to be the Seignior Wall, which will cross here. Above right above Makalu la will set up camp. The Nepalgram team makes an easy traverse to camp IV at 7900m, which allows you to have a shorter summit day.

Makalu Summit (8485m/27,838ft)-16-17 hrs:

The main goal during the climbing period is the summit. Most climbers start their highest point offer at 11:00 pm. If all works out positively, they arrive at the meeting between 7-10 am. Under the most noteworthy point is a counterfeit finish; the central panel reached via an exposed ridge. It takes about 5 hours to return to Camp 4 from the end and another 2 hours to get to camp three for an overnight stay. The climbing is not technical in the early part as you ascend through several basins with short snow headwalls. The climb passes the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge to the proper forum for a spectacular view of the mighty Himalaya. Nepalgram Sherpa guides will fix ropes, break trail, and make every effort to help the group reach the summit of the 5th highest mountain in the world.

Looking forward

After a rich Himalayan trekking experience, our Makalu Expedition will end at the Lukla airstrip descending through the traditional trade center Namche Bazaar.

Nepalgram Adventure is glade to design your Makalu Expedition in Nepal as a complete Nepal travels with our experienced climbing/Trekking guides and expert staff for your satisfaction.

Climbing permit cost

Makalu Expedition cost details of Nepalgram Adventure

51 days trekking and climbing programs. Include Lodge, tent accommodations, Breakfasts, Lunch, Dinners, Porters’ High climbing guide & cook.

The price also includes fixed rope, main rope, ices crow, snow bar, ice hammer & all the group gears need while climbing the peak.

Hotel in Kathmandu as per our itinerary is included. Transport, Climbing permit and insurance is included in the cost for Makalu Expedition.

We assure kind hearted and experienced staff who knows how-to trace the route on glacier route, high pass route, and how to fix the rope for ice climbing, and how to climb the Makalu Expedition with minimal risk and precisely successful pattern.