Choyu Expedition

Overview

Mount Choyu is counted as the world’s 6th elevated mountain which is acknowledged as the sacred mountain for the native people. It positions as the lofty above the Tibetan plains standing on the border of Nepal and Tibet.

Choyu Expedition, designed by the knowledgeable team members of Destination Nepal Trek and our expedition team has achieved success all the time we have attempted to it. This is listed as the part of adventure trekking if you are looking for carrying out Nepal trekking.

The extensive days of Nepal trekking holidays in Choyu Expedition is thrilling one and you might be wonder how the mountain has got its name as ‘Choyu?’Solving your curiosity it means Mount Cho You is remembered as the Goddess of Turquoise that means in Tibetan terminology ‘Chomo’ signifies goddess and ‘Yu’ stands for Turquoise.

In additional it is also known as ‘Mighty Head’ or God’s Head. So, it has rooted with religious values and beliefs. In clear weather condition you can observe the breathtaking summit plateau along with the panorama of Lhotse, Everest, Ama Dablam, Nuptse and Chamlang along with further peaks that are positioned on Khumbu.

Discussing in relation to the trekking expedition in camp I you will stroll on the vague trail over the moraine enclosed glacier and is placed at the ridge 6,400 meter. On the edge of huge plateau you will encounter Camp II at 7,125 meter and at the lofty elevation of 7,550 meter Camp III is waiting for you.

Climbing History

Cho Oyu was the 5th of the 8000 meter peaks to be climbed. The order was: Annapurna, Everest, Nanga Parbat and K2.

• 1921 Howard-Bury researched the area and got some good photos of Cho Oyu from the Nangpa La area. The access to the peak remained off limits from the Nepali side until 1951.
• 1951-1952 Eric Shipton makes a recce to Everest and at the same time makes some research about Cho Oyu. He returns the year after with a strong team to make tests on gear and team members for the 1953 expedition.
• 1954 Tichy and his team trespassed illegally into Tibet over the Nangpa La and started to climb on what later became the normal route on the west face. On the 19’th of October, 1954, Austrian climbers Tichy and Jochler, together with Indian citizen Pasang.
• 1958 Pasang returned with Sonam and made the second ascent. The first death occurred on the peak during this expedition. After a highly disputed claim in 1964, the peak didn’t see any more ascents until the late 70’s.
• 1978 Koblmüller and Furtner, two Austrians climb the SE face. They did it illegally and the ascent was disputed.
• 1983 Messner, Kammerlander, Dacher climbed the peak alpine style with three bivouacs. It was Messner’s 10’th 8000’er. They climbed via a part new route on the south-west side.
• 1984 Czechs Komarkova and Sterbova makes the first female ascent and repeated Messner’s line.
• 1985 In Februari Cho Oyu was climbed for the first time in the winter. It was the fourth ever ascent of an 8000 meter peak in winter. On top of that, it was made on a new route, the hard south ridge. Berbeka & Pawlikowski summited the 12’th of February and Heinrich & Kukuczka followed three days later. This ascent made it 8000’er number 8 for Kukuczka and his second winter ascent that winter. The first was Dhaulagiri, the 21 of January with Andrzej Czok.
• Cho Oyu got more and more popular in the 80’s and soon it became the 8000’er with the most ascents after Everest.
• 1985 Jaromir Stejskal and Dusan Beck made the first 8000 meter peak winter ascent in alpine style.
• 1988 Spanish climber Fernando Garrido was the first man who soloed a 8000 meters peak in winter.
• 1988 The first ascent of the north face was made by Slovenians. Iztok Tomazin (solo) and in the next day’s Viktor Groselj, Koze Rozman, Rado Nadvesnik, Marko Prezelj, Blaz jereb and Roman Robas.
• 1990 Lorethan, Troillet and Kurtyka climbed a difficult new route on the SW face. At the same time Yamanoi soloed a route just to the left of the above mentioned route in only two days
• 1993 First female winter ascent was also on Cho Oyu. Swiss Marianne Chapuisat climbed the top in 1993.
• 1995 A female Japanese expedition made an alpine style repetition of the 1990 route. Summit was reached by Takeo Nagao and Yuka Endoh after four days.
• Laura Bakos recently became the first woman to ski down a 8000m peak.
• Slovenian climber Pavle kozjek’s new route in late 2006The north face was climbed by Slovenian climbers in 1988.

Route to Choyu Expedition

The elegant North West face of Cho Oyu brings us up fairly easy angled 30 degree snow slopes. There is one steep serac barrier to negotiate at 6800m. Where necessary, fixed lines will be placed to aid us on steeper sections. Following our acclimatization walks in Nylam and Tingri, we will arrive at the Chinese Base Camp where we begin our exciting preparations to move up to Base Camp at 5700m via an Intermediate Camp at around 5400m, to aid acclimatization.

Camp 1 (6400m) is reached in 4-6 hours via an initial walk up the Gyabrag Glacier, up a steep scree to a broad snow shoulder and our first high camp.

Camp 2 (7100m) we follow the snow ridge out of Camp 1 to a steep 50 meter ice wall, which provides us with our most challenging climb on this route. To make this ascent safe we use fixed ropes.

Camp 3 (7500m) we are now on easier ground and we reach our third camp in around four hours. At this altitude there is a tremendous sense of effort to gain further height.

Summit Day: It takes 6-9 hours to attain Cho Oyu’s grand summit plateau. The route takes us over moderately easy snow and rock; it is now only the weather and altitude that can stand in our way of conquering this grand 8000m peak.

Looking forward

After a rich Himalayan trekking experience, our Choyu Expedition will end at the Lukla airstrip descending through the traditional trade center Namche Bazaar.

Nepalgram Adventure is glade to design your Choyu Expedition in Nepal as a complete Nepal travels with our experienced climbing/Trekking guides and expert staff for your satisfaction.

Climbing permit cost

Choyu Expedition cost details of Nepalgram Adventure

49 days trekking and climbing programs. Include Lodge, tent accommodations, Breakfasts, Lunch, Dinners, Porters’ High climbing guide & cook.

The price also includes fixed rope, main rope, ices crow, snow bar, ice hammer & all the group gears need while climbing the peak.

Hotel in Kathmandu as per our itinerary is included. Transport, Climbing permit and insurance is included in the cost for Choyu Expedition.

We assure kind hearted and experienced staff who knows how-to trace the route on glacier route, high pass route, and how to fix the rope for ice climbing, and how to climb the Choyu Expedition with minimal risk and precisely successful pattern.