Dhaulagiri Expedition Introduction:
Dhaulagiri (8,167 meters) also known as White Mountain is the seventh highest mountain in the world among the most popular 8000 meters peaks for Himalayan expeditions. It forms the eastern anchor of the Dhaulagiri Himal, a subrange of the Himalaya in the Dhaulagiri Zone of north central Nepal.
It lies northwest of Pokhara, an important regional town and tourist center. Across the deep gorge of the Kali Gandaki to the east lies the Annapurna Himal, home to Annapurna I, one of the other eight-thousanders.
When Dhaulagiri was first discovered in 1808, it was thought to be the highest mountain in the world for westerners. It remained the highest peak for 30 years before Kanchanjunga took its place. Dhaulagiri justifies a magnificent peak rising as a giant shoulder of shining ice and snow.
The South and West faces of Dhaulagiri both feature massive drops; each rises over 4000 meters from its base, and each has been the site of the historical climbs. The peak was first conquered in 1960 by a via North East Ridge which has been the normal route of ascent for most of the climbing to date.
Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji, members of a Swiss/Austrian expedition, firstly conquered the Dhaulagiri expedition on May 13, 1960 via North East Ridge, which has been the normal route of expedition for most of the climbing to date.
Northeast Ridge route which had been reconnoitered one year earlier by an Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec. This was also the first Himalayan climb supported by a fixed-wing aircraft. The aircraft, a Pilatus PC-6, crashed during an approach and was later abandoned in Hidden Valley north of the mountain.
Dhaulagiri is buttressed by five ridges which offer the possibilities of different routes of ascent through six different routes have been established for climbing so far. The vast majority of the ascents to date have been via the first ascent route, which is the Normal Route on the mountain. However, ascents have been made from almost every direction for the Dhaulagiri Expedition.
Dhaulagiri Expedition to this 8167 m Himalayan massif is the seventh highest mountain in the world. It is located in the north central part of Nepal. The crest of the mountain stretches some thirty miles giving structure to an otherwise tangled topography of twisting ridges, glaciers and icefall.
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Along the main crest, several pyramid-shaped peaks rise. All four of these peaks each rise 7000m over the Kali Gandaki gorge to the southeast within about 30km. The Kali Gandaki gorge lies between the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. This creates a face-off of two eight-thousander giants over the deep Kali Gandaki valley.
First climb
First on May 13, 1960 by a Swiss/Austrian/Nepali expedition. Most ascents have followed the northeast ridge route of the first ascent, but climbs have been made from most directions. As of 2007 there had been 358 successful ascents and 58 fatalities.
When the French got permission to climb either the Annapurna or Dhaulagiri, they chose Annapurna after making a reconnaissance of Dhaulagiri in 1950. In 1953, a Swiss party failed, then an Argentine group tried, but failed one year later. And finally, the Swiss expedition reached the summit in 1960, following a circuitous route around the mountain from Tukuche, over the Dhampus pass.
The French failed to climb the summit from the North-East Col so their expedition was supported by a Swiss Pilatus Porter aircraft, the “Yeti” which landed on the North-East Col at 5977m. But the plane crashed just before the end of the expedition near Dhampus pass. The pilots, including the famous Emil Wick, walked down the mountain to Tukuche.
Dhaulagiri Expedition outline Itinerary
- Day 1 – Arrival at Kathmandu International Airport
- Day 2 – Trip preparation and city tour of Kathmandu or Patan and Bhaktapur.
- Day 3 – Final preparation day in Kathmandu for expedition
- Day 4 – Drive from Kathmandu to Beni takes about nine hours.
- Day 5: Drive from Beni to Darbang (1110 m.) which takes about 5 hours.
- Day 6 – Trek from Darbang to Muri via Takum takes about 5 hours.
- Day 7 – Trek from Muri to Naura (1570 m.) takes about 5 hours.
- Day 8 – Trek from Naura to Bagar (2080m.).
- Day 9 – Trek from Bagar to Dobhang (2520 m.).
- Day 10 – Trek from Dovan to Chaur Bag Khola (3445 m.) takes about 5 hours.
- Day 11 – Trek from Chau Bag Khola to Italian Base Camp (3660 m.) takes about 4 hours.
- Day 12 – Trek from Italian Base Camp to Japanese Camp (3890 m.) and it takes about 5 hours.
- Day 13 – Trek from Japanese Camp to Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4748 m.) which takes about 5 hours.
- Day 14-43: Climbing period (Base Camp – Summit 8167 m – Base Camp) of Dhaulagiri Mountain
- Day 44: Trek from Dhaulagiri Base Camp to Hidden valley via French pass (5010m.) takes about 5 hours.
- Day 45: Trek from Hidden Valley (5200m) to Yak Kharka takes about seven hours
- Day 46: Trek from Yak Kharka to Marpha (2670m.) takes about five hours.
- Day 47: Drive from Marpha to Pokhara by Jeep/Bus. Stay overnight at hotel in Pokhara.
- Day 48: After breakfast early morning, drive from Pokhara to Kathmandu that takes about seven hours.
- Day 49: Free day in Kathmandu for shopping and recreation
- Day 50: Departure
Download Detail itinerary of Dhaulagiri Expedition
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Cost details of Dhaulagiri expedition
Cost details of Dhaulagiri expedition - General Inclusions
- To quote you with an exact or approximate price, we need the number of persons in your group, the category of hotel, the mode of transportation (by plane or by bus or by jeep etc) & any alternation in your itinerary. Please contact us with these important details first so that we can get back to you on the cost.
- Accommodation at our base in Kathmandu
- All road transport by private vehicles.
- All camping facilities and meals during the expedition.
- Porters to carry loads from Lukla-base camp-Lukla
- All costs for leaders, guides and local helpers
- Equipment allowance, daily allowance & insurance for base camp staff ( sirdar, cook, kitchen boy and liaison officer)
- Flights to transfer climbing members, staff, liason officer and cargo of the climbing gear.
- Royalty and peak permit
- Airport arrival and departure
Cost details of Dhaulagiri expedition - General Exclusions
- Nepal entry visa fee (you may easily issue the visa upon your arrival at International Airport - Kathmandu). You need 30$ dollar visa fee for 15 days, cash money will be easier.
- Bar bills and laundry.
- High altitude food and fuel above base camp.
- Climbing equipment, tents and personal equipment above base camp
- Personal accident insurance and emergency rescue operation
- Tips or Gratitude.
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