Lhotse Expedition

Overview

Expedition Overview:

Existing to the south of Everest, Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world. Lhotse is linked with Everest by Everest South Col. Many climbers have preferred Western Face as the normal Lhotse Climbing Route. The southern face of Lhotse is considered as one of the world’s largest Mountain faces as the southern face soar high up to 3.2 km in mere 2.25km of horizontal distance. Lhotse Massif comprises of Lhotse East (8414m), Lhotse (8516m) and Lhotse Shar (8383m). The successful attempt of Lhotse was made in 1956 by a Swiss team. Lhotse is located near to Tibet and Lhotse in Tibetan dialect means South Peak. Since Everest and Lhotse is located near to each other, we will follow the same route to Everest through Everest South Col. Everest climbers head to the left of South Col while Lhotse Climbers take the right path.

Mount Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world. Its long east west crest is located immediately south of Mount Everest (8,848m) and the summits of the two mountains are below 8,000 metres. Sometimes, Lhotse (8,516m) has mistakenly been identified as the south peak of the Everest Massif. No serious attention was given to climbing Lhotse until Everest had finally been ascended. Lhotse was first climbed in 1956 as an alternative route towards the summit of Everest. In addition to the main summit, there are two subsidiary peaks, Lhotse Shar, which is immediately east of the main summit, and Nuptse, a high peak on the mountain’s west ridge.

Lhotse (8516m) is the fourth tallest peak in the world. Lhotse lies to the south of the world’s highest peak mount Everest. It was first summated in 1956 by F. Luchsinger and E. Reiss. A striking ring of three mountains makes the Lhotse range: Lhotse Middle or East, Lhotse and Lhotse Shar. The South Face of Lhotse is one of the major peak faces in the earth. We endeavor to climb passing through the common route to the highest peak of the Lhotse range.

Lhotse Base Camp is situated alongside the Khumbu Glacier. The segment during the way up that has been generally affirmed as the most risky is the Khumbu Icefall. The stunning massif also holds enormous display and offers mesmerizing opportunities. We move ahead from Lhotse base Camp. And for 35 days we will climb to set our Camp I (6065m) which is situated at the peak of Khumbu icefall. And it is a isolated and out in the open place generally used as rest location before moving to camp II (6750m). The glacier that lies between camp I and II compressed but there are also large crevasses near to camp I. Similarly, Camp II is situated in a lateral moraine at the base of west edge. The spot bestows wonderful views of Lhotse. Camp II is main location for acclimatization and is the base for camp III. Likewise, Camp III (7100m) is situated on small edge on the Lhotse wall. One has to traverse the glacier to the right section before 600m ascend on the condensed snow field. The route is protected with only few of short less than 3 m ice cliffs for which Sherpa guides will set up with fixed ropes. Besides, Camp IV (7920m) situated near South Col which is the last camp and is easily reachable by majority of mountaineers without additional oxygen. We will have to face two rock sections to find the way before camp IV. Now, from camp IV the way enters 500m along a blend of pack ice, snow and some rock.

Passing all the way through Namche Bazaar, the gateway to Mt. Everest; explore 200 years old Tengboche monastery, Pangboche monastery; and panoramic scenery of the dozens of mountain. This 55 day Mt. Lhotse Expedition designed by Unique Adventure Trek will let you have the best experience ever. The best season to go for the expedition is spring and autumn.

Looking forward

After a rich Himalayan trekking experience, our Lhotse Expedition will end at the Lukla airstrip descending through the traditional trade center Namche Bazaar.

Nepalgram Adventure is glade to design your Lhotse Expedition in Nepal as a complete Nepal travels with our experienced climbing/Trekking guides and expert staff for your satisfaction.

First climbed

Mount Lhotse (8516M/27,940ft.) was first climbed on May 18th,1956, when Mr. Fritz Luchsinger and Ernst Reiss from Switzerland. In 1955 the International Himalayan Expedition team, led by Norman Dyhrenfurth, reached 8100m on Lhotse. The group included two Austrian climbers Erwin Schneider, Ernst Senn, and two Swiss Bruno Spirig and Arthur Spöhel. They went with almost 200 local porters and eight climbing Sherpas guide. After a brief look at the dangerous southern approaches of Lhotse Shar, they turned their attention to the Northwest face of Lhotse. The groups were beaten back by unexpectedly strong wind and cold temperatures. When the team noted the coordinate of 27° 57’45” N 86° 56’03” E was the real summit location, south col became the usual climbing route.

Lhotse South Col Route Camps:

Khumbu Icefall:

Once past the Khumbu icefall, the route is not that challenging technically and is essentially a strenuous trekking route with a little objective danger. The Khumbu Icefall is a steep glacier with an obvious implication of large crevasses and dangerously unstable seracs, making navigation complicated and riddled in the severe threat of falling ice. The most dangerous part of the climb in Lhotse. There is an obvious danger of high altitude sickness complications and changeable, unpredictable mountain weather. At the beginning of the climbing period, climbing Sherpas guides (Icefall enactor) set the route through the icefall, installing ladders across crevasses and along vertical serac ice walls for efficient and easy climbing. These arrangements make climbing of the Khumbu icefall conceivable, practical, and moderately protected, unusually early morning before the dawn when the ice structure is very much frozen. Khumbu icefall is difficult in the early evening because of its western viewpoint.

Base Camp: (5200m/17,060ft.)

Lhotse base camp lies on a moving glacier at 5,200 meters from sea level, where you will spend up to 45 days. Conditions in base camp will remain consistent during the climbing period and will consist of shifting and moving tents and platforms as the ice moves and melts. The area is harsh but beautiful and surrounded by Pumori, Lola, and Nuptse, and The Khumbu Icefall experiences warm mornings and occasional afternoon snow squalls. With so many expedition teams at BC, it looks like a small village in the Himalayas.

Camp I: (5900m/19,357ft.)

Arriving at C1 is the most specialized piece of a southside climb since it crosses the Khumbu Icefall. The icefall is 2,000 feet of moving ice with deep crevasses, towering ice seracs, and avalanches off Everest’s west shoulder. During the climbing period, we attempt to spend only two nights on camp I for acclimatization. Once you have proper acclimation, our plans call for us to move up and down directly from base II safely.

Camp II: (6400m/20,998ft.)

Camp II is in a lateral moraine at the bottom of the West edge. It is a too protected and shielded area with colossal perspectives on Lhotse. All organizations set up their primary climbing camp for the climbing time frame, with tents for singular climbers and kitchen and dining tents. Center two is the main acclimatization. The base three for acclimatization before climbing to the final summit attempt. The center that you will spend most time after base camp.

Camp III: (7100m/23,294ft.)

Climbing the Lhotse Face to Camp III is often tricky since almost all climbers feel the effects of high altitude and are not yet using supplemental oxygen. The Lhotse Face is steep, and the ice is hard, but the routing fix with rope, and the angles can range from 30 to 45 degrees. It is a long climb to camp III but requires acclimatization before a summit bid. You will spend two nights at camp three for acclimatization and the summit push.

Camp IV: (79000m/25,918ft.)

Welcome to the moon—a flat area covered with loose rock and surrounded by Lhotse on the South. Camp IV is the last camp, and it is easily accessible by a majority of climbers without supplementary oxygen. There are two rock sections to navigate before camp IV: The Yellow Band, a layer of marble, phyllite, semi schist rock, and the Geneva Spur, an anvil-shaped rib of black stone. Both of these areas are set-up with fixed ropes.

Summit: (8516m/27, 940ft.)11-16 hours

The last section of the climb from camp III to camp IV takes 11-16 hours to navigate. There the Lhotse face raises at 40-45 degrees with the occasional 80-degree bulge. The climbing Sherpa guide will set fixed ropes up the wall of ice. Climbers and porters need to establish a good foot placement rhythm and pull themselves up the strings using their Jumars. Two rocky sections called the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face before reaching the central summit. The route to the true summit is a moderate snow slope, and while tired, adrenaline keeps most climbers moving at this point.